Second Label Wine
  • Home
  • What is a Second Label?
  • Library of Reviews
  • Your Chef & Sommelier
  • Wine Shop
  • Contact

Second Label Wines We Have Previously Reviewed

OLD WORLD

La Parde de Haut-Bailly 2006
Termes Tinta de Toro 2008
Beaucastel Cotes-du-Rhone 2008
Perrin & Fils Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2009
Castelnau de Suduiraut 2003
Alto Moncayo Veraton 2008
Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella 2007
Chateau Haut Bages Averous 2004
Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo Langhe 2008
Pegovino Vin de Pays d'Oc 2007
Les Chenes de Macquin 2007
Guigal Cotes de Rhone 2007
Remoissenet Pere & Fils Bourgogne 2008
Les Douves de la Tour Carnet 2000
Banfi Rosso di Montalcino 2008
Vieux Telegramme Chateauneuf Du Pape 2007
La Badiola Acquaguista Rosso 2007
EBO Val di Cornia Suvereto Rosso 2007
Vall Llach Embruix 2006
Joseph Drouhin Laforet Pinot Noir 2009

NEW WORLD

Migration Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Kali Hart Chardonnay 2008
Acrobat Pinot Gris 2009
Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec 2009
Decoy Napa Valley Red Wine 2008
Kanonkop Kadette 2008
Nelms Road Merlot 2006
Edge Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Ghost Pines Zinfandel 2008
Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Pargua II 2006
Napanook 2007
Trumpeter Malbec 2008
Wallace Brook Cellars Pinot Noir 2009
Shooting Star Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2007
Knights Valley Pinot Noir 2006
Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Prologue 2008
Brampton Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Four Sisters Shiraz 2008
Caravan Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2008
Stone Cap Merlot 2009
Barn D'Or Chardonnay 2008
Crossbarn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Aires Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2006
Kali Hart Pinot Noir 2008
Cuvee A Pinot Noir 2008
Jayson Pinot Noir 2007
Maxwell Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Helix Merlot 2005
Slingshot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Jester Shiraz 2007
Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
The Wolftrap 2010


 

Migration Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Picture
Retail Price: $34
Second Label of Goldeneye
Goldeneye Retail Price: $50


Vintage: 2007
Var
ietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Cooperage: 100% French Oak
Barrel Aging: 10 Months
Release Date: March 2009


Tasting Notes:

The second label of Goldeneye is a bright and very balanced, if not overly complex, wine that is a good representation of California Pinot Noir.  When first poured, the wine seemed like a complete fruit bomb with nothing on the nose except cherries and strawberries.  However, as it opened up the dark berries and black plums started to show themselves along with a touch of white pepper and spice in the mouth.  There was very little earthiness present.  At 14.5% alcohol, this is not a delicate Pinot.  It’s got a good medium body, high acidity and a long finish, so it can stand up to a lot of foods that a mellower Pinot would be overwhelmed by.  To get the most out of this Migration, decant it for 15 or 20 minutes and then drink it within the hour.  After about an hour it starts to lose the brightness and “sunshine” that makes it a really pleasant wine. 

The 2007 Migration Anderson Valley Pinot Noir can be found online through various sources at Snooth.com, and the 2008 vintage is available at Wine.com.  In the Austin area, both Twin Liquors Marketplace locations (41st & Red River at Hancock Center and Highway 71 West at Bee Caves) had the 2007 vintage in stock at last check.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This Migration screams out for a roasted pork loin and a side of veggies.  A nice roasted duck breast would also fit the bill, as well as grilled salmon on cedar plank.  But be careful, this is a strong Pinot Noir and it could very easily overpower more delicate salmon preparations.  With this wine generally look to do lighter preparations of darker meats and forceful preparations of lighter meats.  You might also try it with lamb and braised or roasted chicken.  If you want to have it with cheese, opt for a young fresh goat milk cheese.  Whatever you do, keep it away from sweet, spicy or excessively fatty dishes.

About Migration:

Migration is the second label of Goldeneye, a winery started by the Duckhorn Wine Company of Napa Valley fame in 1997 with 57 acres of Pinot Noir vines.  With the addition of other vineyards in subsequent years, Goldeneye now farms a total of 180 acres, second only to Roederer Estate’s 580 acres in the Anderson Valley.  The Goldeneye Pinot Noir is a blend from all of their vineyard sources in the Anderson Valley, and the Migration Pinot is a similar wine produced from declassified juice.  Beginning with the 2008 vintage, Migration is also offering a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay.

About the Anderson Valley:

North of San Francisco in Mendocino County, Anderson Valley is known for the production of some of the best sparkling wines in the United States.  Warm sunny days and cool foggy nights provide excellent conditions for varietals that prefer cooler climates.  Most of the acres under vine today consist of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.  The Anderson Valley became an officially recognized appellation in 1983.

About the Winemaker:

Neil Bernardi was born and raised in Northern California.  After living in Florence, Italy, he returned to California and enrolled at the U.C. Davis where he earned a B.A. in Italian and a B.S. in viticulture and enology.  Next he moved to New Zealand where he worked as part of the winemaking teams at Saint Clair Estate, Cape Campbell Wines and Kim Crawford.  Neil then went to work for Quintessa before joining Goldeneye as an enologist but quickly rose to assistant winemaker within a year.  He also served as vice president on the executive board of directors for the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association during this time.  Neil left Goldeneye in 2007 to work for Littorai, but he rejoined the Goldeneye family in 2009 as the winemaker for Migration.

Winemaker’s Notes:

The product of a standout growing season, the 2007 Migration is sleek and silky, with enticing upfront aromatics and compelling dark fruit layers. The nose displays jasmine tea and flowering blackberries, alongside dusty undertones of fresh chanterelles. These aromatics are echoed on the palate and accentuated by flavors of huckleberry, boysenberry, licorice, plum, white chocolate and orange blossom, all leading to a cleansing, medium-length finish.

Harvest Notes:

In 2007, a dry winter led to even growth and manageable canopies. The summer was cool, and lacked any major heat spells until just before Labor Day when we began the first of four “mini-harvests.” These mini-harvests allowed us to pick at ideal ripeness over a seven-week period. Although the crop was lighter than expected, the quality was excellent. While each mini-harvest offered fruit with its own personality, there is a lovely consistency to the dark, well-extracted and structured nature of the wines.

Harvest Dates: September 6 – October 16, 2007
Average Sugar at Harvest: 26.0° Brix
6 Vineyards Harvested

 

Kali Hart Chardonnay 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $16
Second Label of Talbott
Retail Price of Talbott: $30


Varietal: 100% Chardonnay
Combination of French oak and stainless steel
Cool, slow fermentation
Full malolactic fermentation
Aged (sur lie) for 8 months
Alcohol: 14.6%

Tasting Notes:

This estate-grown second label is a rare find in the world of oaked Chardonnays because it properly balances the crisp fruit characteristics of the grape along with the rich flavors imparted by the barrels and extended sur lie aging.  It is a great value bottle of wine.  The aroma is filled with pineapple, pear, peach, honeydew melon and honeysuckle, and the mouth provides the butterscotch, caramel and vanilla undertones without masking the fruit.  This is a full bodied Chardonnay with good acidity, a medium to long finish and offers a lot of complexity for $16. 

The Kali Hart is a real crowd pleaser, and I can’t think of a better wine to buy by the case for Thanksgiving next year or to keep on-hand as your house white wine.  To get the most out of it, be sure not to drink it straight out of the refrigerator (35-40 degrees).  We have a tendency to drink our white wines too cold which is a shame because a lot of the great aromas don’t present themselves until it starts to warm up.  Try to drink this Chardonnay around 50 to 52 degrees and you’ll be pleased with the results.


The 2008 Kali Hart Chardonnay can be found online through various sources at Snooth.com and at Wine.com.  In the Austin area, look for it at both Twin Liquors Marketplace locations and at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The Kali Hart is a very versatile Chardonnay that could go with a wide range of foods, but the moment I took my first sip I could not stop thinking about a thick-cut B.L.T. with real mayo.  It would also go great with any type of sweet seafood that caramelizes easily like scallops, lobster, prawns, mussels or clams along with some sautéed vegetables.  And it would be welcome at a table serving rustic southern comfort food like fried chicken, corn bread and collard greens.  Salmon is a natural pairing for Chardonnay, but you might even try it with a chicken fried steak to see how it stands up.  Lastly, as Chad said above, this is a great Thanksgiving wine.  It is arguably the worst meal to try and pair with wine properly, but this Kali Hart would compliment turkey, dressing, vegetables, casseroles and whatever else you can squeeze onto the Thanksgiving table. 

About Kali Hart:

Kali Hart is the second label of Talbott Vineyards and is named after the founder’s youngest daughter.  After a successful career in the designer necktie business in nearby Carmel, Robb Talbott began planting his original Diamond T. Estate vineyard with Corton-Charlemange Chardonnay clones in 1982.  Twelve years later, Robb acquired the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, a short 13 miles from Monterey Bay, which made Talbott an all-estate winery.  The Kali Hart Chardonnay is sourced from grapes of both Talbott vineyards.

About Monterey County:

The 40,000 acres, 175 vineyards and 85 wineries of Monterey County mostly stretch along a 90-mile long valley and encompass nine different appellations.  The region’s proximity to the Pacific where ocean depths reach more than two miles just offshore have a tremendous impact on the local viticulture.  The summertime diurnal temperature variation is huge with 40 or 50 degree swings from daytime highs to nighttime lows.  This allows the grapes to ripen with high sugar content, but the drop in temperature preserves the natural acids as well. 

Winemaking first took hold in Soledad where Franciscan friars at the mission planted the first crop of vines, but it was not until the 1960’s that it became a viable commercial enterprise when the likes of Wente, Mirassou, Paul Masson, J. Lohr and Chalone began planting vineyards.  Today over 42 different varietals are being grown in Monterey County, but Chardonnay is the star of the region accounting for over half of the acres under vine.

About the Winemaker:

Dan Karlsen has been making wine in California for three decades.  His family moved to Sonoma when he was 12 years old and he later put himself through college working as a plumber, carpenter and electrician.  Dan’s entry into the wine industry came at Dry Creek Vineyard where he started as a maintenance mechanic, but he quickly took to winemaking.  Four years later, he moved to Dehlinger Winery as an assistant winemaker and later worked at Domaine Carneros where he held the position of winemaker for five years and produced award-winning sparkling wines.  Dan also worked for a decade at Chalone before joining the team at Talbott.

Winemaker’s Notes:

This Chardonnay is light straw in color with a youthful greenish hue and excellent clarity. The rich, inviting nose shows bright tropical fruit notes. This vibrant tropical fruit continues on the palate with flavors of pineapple and honeydew melon, complemented by refreshing acidity. A generous mid-palate gives way to a bright focused finish with citrus elements of lemon and tangerine and mineral notes. Kali Hart Chardonnay is intended to be enjoyed within a year or so of release.

 

La Parde de Haut-Bailly 2006

Picture
Retail Price: $30
Second Label of:
Chateau Haut Bailly
Retail Price of
Chateau Haut Bailly: $90



Varietal: 49% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon,
16% Cabernet Franc

Cooperage: 12 months in French oak
Alcohol: 12.5%

Tasting Notes:

Our first proper second label Bordeaux on this website, the Merlot-based La Parde de Haut Bailly stands in stark contrast to Chateau Haut-Bailly’s first label which contains 65% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This is a soft, easy drinking medium bodied wine.  It is a harmonious blend of the Bordeaux varietals that has enough tannin to stand up to fatty meats, but nothing that is so overpowering that it would call for more cellaring.  On the nose you’ll find some great dark fruit like currant, black cherry and black plum, but you’ve really got to hunt for it.  I attribute that mostly to the Merlot which, in my estimation, is one of the most difficult grapes in which to identify specific aromas or flavors in a blind tasting.  There is also a hint of humid tobacco and dustiness, but it’s just enough to remind you this is still a left bank Bordeaux wine.  This is a well made wine, bottled without fining or filtration, from one of the top Chateau in the Pessac-Leognan appellation.  It’s an excellent value.

The 2006 La Parde de Haut Bailly can be found online at Specsonline.com.  In the Austin area, look for it at Specs but you can also order it through their website and have it delivered to your door.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I’d like to grab a bottle of this La Parde de Haut Bailly, a fresh-baked loaf of sourdough bread, a hard and/or stinky cheese like blue, brie or Camembert, and then head out for a picnic.  In fact, it would pair nicely with most grilled, hot deli sandwiches like a patty melt, French dip, hot pastrami on rye or even a Philly cheese steak (hold the pickled peppers).  Alternately it would drink well with a beef and vegetable kabob on the grill, roasted lamb, dark turkey meat or just a great steak seasoned with salt and pepper.

About La Parde de Haut Bailly:

One of the first second wines ever to be made in Bordeaux, La Parde de Haut Bailly was created in 1967 under the name Domaine de la Parde.  It was renamed in 1979.  The wine is made from young vines and aged in French oak for 12 months and subject to the same selection controls as the first wine.  The wine’s softness and forward aroma means it can be consumed sooner than Chateau Haut Bailly, but it also has good aging potential.

About Chateau Haut Bailly:

Sitting on the left bank of the Garonne River in the Pessac-Leognan appellation, Chateau Haut Bailly is one of the premier cru estates of Graves.  It is comprised of 74 acres of vineyard, approximately 65% of which is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.  The soil in the vineyard is sand and gravel on sandstone subsoil containing the remains of ancient fossil shells.  All of the grapes for Haut Bailly are picked by hand.  Haut Bailly produces approximately 150,000 bottles of wine annually, between 30-40% of that is dedicated to the second label wine.

The vineyard was created in the 16th century by a family from Basque, but by 1630 it was purchased by a banker from Paris named Firmin Le Bailly.  The estate fell into decline in the late 1800’s, but was revived in 1955 when it was bought by Daniel Sanders, a Belgian wine merchant.  The current owner, Robert G. Wilmers, is an American banker who bought the Chateau in 1998. 

About the Winemaker:

The great-granddaughter of Daniel Sanders, the former owner, Veronique Sanders is a rare breed in Bordeaux, a female running a Chateau.  She and Gabriel Vialard, the Pauillac-born winemaker, manage the day-to-day operations of the estate.

Winemaker’s Notes:

The 2006 vintage of La Parde de Haut-Bailly has a deep, bright, ruby-red color and plenty of aromatic purity on the nose, showing hints of black fruit and well-integrated oak. It is fairly close to Château Haut-Bailly thanks to its elegant, well-focused style. Thanks to refined, mild tannin, 2006 La Parde de Haut-Bailly is already quite accessible and will be in superb form in five to ten years.

Harvest Notes:

Picking began with a superb plot of young Merlot on the 13th of September. Most of this variety was harvested from the 18th - 23rd of September, followed by Cabernet Franc starting on the 25th of that month. We focused our efforts on Cabernet Sauvignon from the 27th of September to the 5th of October. All the grapes were very aromatic this year. We were able to pick healthy, perfectly ripe fruit thanks to the careful work, adapted to each vine, carried out by our vineyard workers throughout the year, as well as our large team of faithful pickers.

Traditional cultivation methods, such as earthing up and ploughing between the vine rows, have always been used at Haut-Bailly. These encourage deep rooting and are a crucial factor in avoiding the splitting of skins and rotting of grapes when showers arrive late in the season.  Such methods were extremely useful in 2006, a year in which the grapes were impeccably healthy, despite two major depressions off the Atlantic in the last two weeks of September.

 

Crios de Susana Bablo Malbec 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $15                   
Second Label of Susana Balbo                   
Retail Price of Susana Balbo: $28


Varietal Content: 85% Malbec, 15% Bonarda
Cooperage: 9 months in oak – 50% French/50% American
Fermentation: 15-20 days maceration
Alcohol: 13.9%

Tasting Notes:

I know some people will take issue with calling this Crios a second label.  It’s definitely a grey area and probably does fall more into the category of an entire second line of wines.  But since I get to make the rules, we’re going to call it a second label.  And when you account for the fact that Kori and I drank ridiculous amounts of Susana Balbo’s wine when we lived in Argentina, there is no way that I’m going to leave her off my list. 

The Malbec grape finds its origins in Bordeaux as a minor blending grape.  On its own, it can be a beast and this young Crios is no exception.  If you are looking for a subtle, nuanced wine, then you need to look elsewhere.  In fact, don’t look for anything subtle in Argentina, wine or otherwise.  This wine is deep purple in color with fresh cherries, plums and other lush fruit abounding.  There is also ample oak along with some vanilla and spice undertones.  The wine is definitely out of balance, but I say that with all due respect to my friends who tango in Argentina.  Sometimes it’s a good thing to lose control, and this Crios is a prime example.

The 2009 Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec can be found here on our website through our new agreement with Wine.com.  We just launched a “Wine Shop” tab at the top of the page with over two dozen second labels that you can order and have delivered directly to your door.  I encourage you to check it out.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is an open and shut case.  The Crios Malbec needs a thick-cut grilled T-bone steak and a loaded baked potato.  I would hesitate to serve this wine with a softer, more marbled piece of meat like a rib eye.  This is an in-your-face wine, so it deserves an in-your-face meal.  BBQ brisket would also do the trick.  Just remember, the key is well seasoned red meat with lots of surface area to come into contact with the fire from the grill. 

About Crios de Susana Balbo:

“Crios” is a word that literally means offspring, and Balbo expressly chose the word to denote that these wines aren’t up to the same level of quality as her signature Susana Balbo label wines.  With that said, Balbo is one of today’s most prominent South American winemakers and she is arguably the top female winemaker in the world.  The Crios label features three hands, an image inspired by a Mayan artifact that represents Susana and her children.  Balbo’s Dominio del Plata winery produces more than 3 million bottles of wine a year.

About Mendoza and Lujan de Cuyo:

A district within the Mendoza Province, Lujan de Cuyo lies in the upper Mendoza valley where the river is midway between the Andes Mountains and the plains to the east.  This is one of the highest altitude wine regions in the world (the highest is Cafayete in Salta Province, Argentina near the border with Bolivia which produces world class Torrontes white wines) with most vineyards sitting at over 3,000 feet above sea level on deep loamy clayish soil with good drainage. 

The Mendoza Province accounts for two-thirds of Argentina’s wine production.  It has a continental climate and has semi-arid desert conditions, not unlike those of the wine country in eastern Washington State.  As rainfall is scarce, irrigation is the primary means for farmers to irrigate their vines, but this gives grape growers much more control over the final product providing great consistency from year to year.  When asked about great Mendoza vintages, an Argentine winemaker replied, “This is Mendoza.  Every year is a great vintage.”  The only real weather concern in Mendoza is the regular hail storms that occur in the summertime.   

About the Winemaker:

Susana Balbo is one of the leading female winemakers in the world.  She began in 1981, after earning a degree in enology, in administration and then as a wine consultant.  The world first really took notice of Balbo when she played a key role in the creation of Bodega Catena Zapata, arguably the finest winery in South America.  In 1999, after working more than 25 years in the industry, Susana Balbo finally started her own winery in Luján de Cuyo called Dominio del Plata.

Winemaker’s Notes:

The wine has a beautiful reddish/purple color as most good Malbecs do.  The aromas are a mix of fresh crushed cherries and toasty/smoky oak-just enough to frame the exuberant fruit.  On the palate, the flavors of cherries and spice are obvious and the jammy fruit quality just keeps coming on strong with hints of spice and sandalwood lurking in the background.

This is a wine that you’ll want to buy by the case because it can be consumed at almost any occasion, whether at a fancy dinner party or just curled up on the couch in front of a movie.  Fun and delicious-what more can you ask for!

 

Acrobat Pinot Gris 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $12                   
Second Label of King Estate                   
Retail Price of King Estate: $17


Varietal Content: 100% Pinot Gris
Fermentation: Stainless steel temperature controlled tanks

Aging: 3 months on the lees
Alcohol: 12.5%

Tasting Notes:

This Acrobat is a great little white wine from an underrated varietal.  Pinot Gris, which is actually a mutation of Pinot Noir, is one of the noble varietals in Alsace, France.  I have always loved using Alsatian Pinot Gris as a utility player because of its elegance and versatility, but Oregon has definitely staked their claim as one of the top Pinot Gris producers in the world.

This wine is filled with lemon grass, kaffir lime leaf, honeysuckle, tangerine and crisp, tart tree fruit like pears and granny smith apples.  It is a high acid wine that has a lot of potential to compliment high acid dishes, but it could also be used to contrast fatty dishes by cutting through cream or butter.  

In terms of value for the dollar, I like the Acrobat, but for only $5 more the King Estate first label is also a bargain.  You won’t go wrong with either bottle.  You can find both the 2009 Acrobat Pinot Gris and the 2009 King Estate Pinot Gris in our Wine Shop.  In the Austin area, you can also pick them up at Specs or Twin Liquors;.   

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The Acrobat Pinot Gris would be a fantastic paring with Asian food, especially fried appetizers like egg rolls, wontons or samosas.  Just be careful not to pair it with dishes containing too much spice as this wine isn’t sweet enough to cool off those taste buds like a German Riesling.  As Chad mentioned above, I could see this wine cutting through the fat of heavier dishes like a quiche, chicken pot pie, cream soups or creamed spinach.  I think it would also be lovely with light white fish.  In fact, here is a recipe for olive oil poached sole with a beet balsamic sauce from Benjamin Nadolny, the sous chef at the King Estate Restaurant.

About Acrobat:

Acrobat is the second label of King Estate, a 1,000+ acre estate located near the town of Lorane, Oregon in the Willamette Valley.  King Estate holds the title of the world’s largest contiguous organic vineyard, and they attempt to buy from other sustainably farmed vineyards when sourcing fruit outside of the estate.  The 110,000 square foot winery, which has also been certified as organic, has a total production capacity of 400,000 gallons.  King Estate includes 30 acres of fruit, vegetable, and flower gardens as well.  The Acrobat label offers a Pinot Noir and a Pinot Gris.

About the Willamette Valley:

The Willamette Valley in western Oregon is 150 miles long and 60 miles wide.  It is bordered on the north by the Columbia River, to the south by the Calapooya Mountain Range, to the east by the Cascades and to the west by Oregon’s Coast Range.  Most of the vines in the valley are planted on the hillsides on the west side.

Although it has a relatively mild climate, there is considerable moisture in the Willamette Valley.  Fortunately most of the rain falls during the winter and not during growing season.  The climate along with gravel, silt and rock soil on top of a volcanic seabed provide ideal conditions for cool weather grapes like Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.  In fact, many believe the valley produces some of the world’s finest Pinot Noir, but most did not take notice until Robert Drouhin, of the famed Joseph Drouhin wines in Burgundy, started planting vineyards here in 1988.  He declared there were only two places in the world he would grow Pinot Noir – Burgundy and Oregon.

As a region, Oregon is the only place in the new world to exclusively use French oak barrels in the aging process, and they have embraced with open arms many of the traditional old world techniques for vineyard management and wine making. 

About the Winemaker:

Jeff Kandarian joined King Estate in the summer of 2008 by way of Southern Oregon where he was the Winemaker for Del Rio Vineyards and Winery. He was born and raised in the agriculturally based San Joaquin Valley of California where he earned a B.S. in Enology and a minor in Chemistry at the California State University of Fresno. Jeff worked at wineries in Paso Robles including Justin, Meridian, Eberle, and Shandon Valley Partners before making his way north to Oregon.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Acrobat Pinot Gris is an extremely approachable wine and a versatile food companion. It has been consistently praised for its value, delivering great quality for a modest price.  The color is a pale straw with golden highlights. On the nose there is melon, green apple, citrus, spice and tropical fruit. On the palate there is tangerine, lemon, kiwi and pear. This wine has a crisp entry with nice balance between acidity and residual sugar, round and full mid-palate, with a clean and refreshing finish.


Harvest Notes:

The 2009 vintage has the potential to be of very high quality.  The growing season in Oregon was one of dramatic week to week temperature variability with wide swings between record highs and record low temperatures.  A couple of incidents of rain occurred over the Labor Day and Columbus Day weekends but did not negatively impact grape quality.  A warm and dry harvest period gave way to cooler than expected conditions in late September and early October, but fortunately the majority of the fruit statewide was at or near optimum ripeness.  Even with a cooler end to the season, the cumulative growing degree days for the 2009 vintage showed a 4-14% increase over 2008, similar to the warm 2004 and 2006 vintages.


 

Decoy Napa Valley Red Wine 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $20                   
Second Label of Duckhorn Red Blend                   
Retail Price of Duckhorn: $70


Varietal Content: 49% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
Cooperage: 15 months in French Oak (10% new/90% second vintage)
Released: June 2010
Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:

This Decoy Napa Valley Red Wine is a fine example of an American Bordeaux blend.  I would recommend decanting it for 20 or 30 minutes to give it a chance to fully open up.

On the nose there are layers of plum, black currant, blueberries and other dark fruits.  There is also an earthy quality with scents of cigar box and vanilla.  The oak is well integrated and there is also a pleasant tartness to the wine.  Overall I would say this is a very masculine and sophisticated bottle of wine.  Everything from the artwork on the label to the winemaker’s touch indicates a strong Y-chromosome influence.  This is an excellent value wine and would make a great gift for a man.

The 2008 Decoy Napa Valley Red Wine can be found on our website at the “Wine Shop” tab at the top of the page.  You can also find it in the Austin area at Specs or Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

What can you say about a well balanced wine like this Decoy Bordeaux blend?  It’s an old school style of wine, so let’s pair it with some old school home cooking like pot roast.  It just calls out for meat and veggies.  Try roasted lamb or pork or a roast beef sandwich.  Just avoid poultry and plain white meats and you’ll be fine.

About Decoy:

Decoy is the “everyday wine for the well-informed” produced by Duckhorn Vineyards which was founded by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn in 1976.  For a fraction of the price of its big brother, Decoy offers wines that are ready to be consumed upon release while still offering the complexity of higher-dollar Napa Valley wines due to quality fruit and the attention of Duckhorn’s executive winemaker, Bill Nancarrow.  The grapes for Decoy wines are a mix of Duckhorn estate vineyards and other top growers in Napa Valley.

About Napa Valley:

The first commercial vineyard was established in Napa Valley in 1858, but due to the outbreak of phylloxera, the institution of Prohibition and the Great Depression, wine making in Napa didn’t really take off until the 1970’s.  In fact, it was the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 (see Chad’s Recommending Wine Reading List at the top of the page) that really catapulted Napa Valley onto the world stage when a Napa Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon bested numerous famous French labels in a blind tasting. 

Napa Valley is flanked by the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and north and the Vaca Mountains to the east.  The soil contains large amounts of volcanic lava and ash.  There are over 450 wineries in the Napa AVA today and an acre of prime vineyard land goes for more than $200,000, up from only $5,000 in 1970.

About the Winemaker:

Raised in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, Bill Nancarrow is the executive winemaker for Duckhorn Vineyards.  He was formally trained in hospitality management, and then he worked throughout Africa and Europe before ending up in England as harvest manager for Thorncroft Vineyards.  In the late 1990’s, Bill became the winemaker at Huthlee Vineyards back in his native New Zealand and later served as winemaker at C.J. Pask.  Bill first worked in the Duckhorn family in 2003 as the winemaker at Paraduxx and he was elevated to the Duckhorn winemaker in 2007. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

Displaying rich color, soft, seamless tannins and enticing fruit, our 2008 Decoy Napa Valley Red Wine offers a lush and appealing expression of Bordeaux-varietal winemaking. The nose begins with fresh berry and black currant aromas, underscored by more sophisticated notes of dark plum, leather, walnut, clove and sage. On the palate, flavors of red currant, blueberry, vanilla bean and macadamia nut are supported by subtle nuances of oak that add texture to a long, satisfying finish.

Harvest Notes:

Though the 2008 growing season presented certain challenges—from early frosts to drought conditions - a meticulous approach to viticulture and sorting yielded small crops with good concentration, highlighting soft, appealing tannins for our red varietals and bright acidity for our white grapes. A long, moderately cool summer led to a harvest that commenced in mid-August and concluded in early November. This relatively relaxed pace allowed us to pick in numerous passes to ensure quality, often focusing on individual rows or a single side of the vines.

Harvest Dates: September 6 - October 24 2008
Average Sugar at Harvest: 26.1° Brix
11 Napa Valley appellations

 

Termes Tinta de Toro 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $28                   
Second Label of Numanthia                   
Retail Price of Numanthia: $57


Varietal Content: 100% Tinta de Toro
Average age of vines: 30 years
Cooperage: 16 months in French oak (racking every 4 months)
Released: June 2010
Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:

The Termes Tinta de Toro is a huge wine in every way imaginable.  With its deep ruby color and heavy tannins, this bottle has the potential to age well for several more years.  On the nose you will find copious amounts of black cherries, raspberries, blackberries and mocha.  There are also quite a few spices like clove and star anise.    

I like this wine and think it is an exceptional value at $28, but I would caution not to expect a typical Tempranillo style of wine even though they are cousins.  In fact, if big Spanish Garnache or Rhone Valley Grenache-based wines are your style, give this Termes a try one evening.  I think it will please the palate.

You can find the 2008 Termes online through our “Wine Shop,” or in the Austin area you can pick it up at either of the Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.  

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I think you need to go big or go home with a beast of a wine like this Termes.  A traditional Bolognese sauce would be an excellent accompaniment.  I could also see an oxtail ragout working nicely, assuming it was not overly spicy but rather more aromatic in its preparation.  I also like the idea of some well flavored classic crock pot dishes like Salisbury steak or Swiss steak with buttered noodles.

About Termes:

Termes is the second label of Bodega Numanthia which is located near the small village of Valdefinjas in Northwestern Spain.  The estate’s name is derived from the towns of Numancia and Tiermes who were known for their fierce resistance to the Roman Empire in the second century B.C.  It is a young estate, having been founded in 1998 by the Eguren family of Rioja.  Since then the winery has been sold to Moët Hennessy.  Numanthia owns 121 acres of vineyards. 

About Toro:

The Toro appellation lies in the northwestern part of Spain in the Zamora province and has a winemaking tradition that dates back to Ancient Rome.  The Duero River crosses the region flowing westward into Portugal and eventually empties into the Atlantic Ocean at the city of Oporto, the home to Port wine.  1,200 different growers tend the 153,000 acres of vines in Toro on soil consisting mostly of sandy loam on top with clay below. 

The Toro region is extremely dry and pushes the limit of what is possible for non-irrigated vines (irrigation is not permitted in Spain).  The continental climate provides very hot summers as well as frigid winters which result in the sort of super ripe, concentrated wines that are a signature of the region. 

All wines in Toro are made from a single grape varietal called Tinta de Toro.  It is a member of the Tempranillo family, but as the Toro managed to resist the phylloxera epidemic, these vines are ungrafted and many are over a century old.

About the Winemaker:

A native of Portugal, Manuel Louzada represents the fourth generation of winemakers in his family.  He received a master in winemaking in addition to a degree in agricultural engineering.  Manuel began his career making Port and later moved to Argentina where he spent ten years as the wine director for Chandon, Terrazas de los Andes and Cheval des Andes.  In 2008, he returned to Europe and took over the helm at Bodega Numanthia.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Color: Deep bright cherry-red, with light purple tones.

Aroma: Fresh and intense fruity aromas (raspberry, red currant, cherry) well integrated with a flower touch (violets, lavender), gentle spices & lively eucalyptus leaves touch.

Mouth: The aromatic experience continues, the mouthfeel is silky and vibrant. After lively and intense attack, an explosion of fruit, the end of mouth is long and persistent, with spices, tobacco, raspberries and blackberries notes.

Harvest Notes:

The largely mild, damp winter was punctuated by several sharp frosts that kept the vineyards free from infection. After a hot start to August, temperatures turned gentler, allowing the grapes to ripen gradually. This meant the harvest started later than usual on September 27, with the fruit at optimal maturity.

 

Kanonkop Kadette 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $13.50
Second Label of Kanonkop Pinotage
Retail Price of Kanonkop: $34

Varietal Content: Pinotage 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 25%, Merlot 15%, Cabernet Franc 10%
Fruit Source: Simonsberg, Stellenbosch
Cooperage: 16 months in French Oak (2nd or 3rd vintage barrels)
Alcohol: 14%

Tasting Notes:

Created in 1925 by South Africa’s first professor of viticulture, the Pinotage grape is actually a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut.  South Africa’s signature grape definitely has its fans and its detractors.  I am not a huge Pinotage fan as a single varietal, but in a wine like this Kadette where it is blended with Bordeaux varietals, I think it provides a unique character and makes this an exciting wine.

The Kadette has a smoky nose with green pepper, star anise and dried fig also present.  Additionally, there is an aroma which was most closely identified as pine resin by Leah, a wine expert friend, at a recent tasting.  Although it is only moderately tannic, the wine has a lot of bite and nice acidity on the finish.  This is a good value wine and worth a shot if you’re looking for something a little different.

You can find the 2008 Kadette online through our Wine Shop, or in the Austin area you can pick it up at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I think this Kadette is much more of a food wine than a sipping wine, and the dish that I would favor the most for a nice pairing would be bell peppers stuffed with ground beef and rice with plenty of garlic and onions.  A traditional meat loaf would also be a nice accompaniment.  For something more involved, think about slow braising a rabbit with a cheaper Pinotage and then drinking this Kadette alongside the final product. 

About Kadette:

Kadette is the second label of Kanonkop Estate, which is situated on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain in the Stellenbosch Region of the Cape.  The name Kanonkop is derived from a kopje (hill), from which a cannon was fired in the 17th Century to alert farmers in outlying areas that sailing ships plying the waters between Europe and the Far East had entered Table Bay for a stopover at Cape Town.  They would then load their wagons, span their oxen and set off to Cape Town to barter their produce, mainly fresh fruit and vegetables, to the sailors and travelers who had spent many months at sea.

Kanonkop is a fourth generation family estate that follows the age-old tradition of fermenting in open concrete tanks, but with a slight difference, in that the tanks are wide and shallow, rather high and deep.  This allows for maximum skin contact.  Known for its red wines, the Kanonkop vineyards are planted with 50% Pinotage, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.5% Merlot and the remainder with Cabernet Franc.  These vines are not trellised, but retained as bush vines to provide optimum sunlight, which allows for maximum ripeness and to assist with regulating the crop.

About Stellenbosch:

Stellenbosch is located in the Western Cape province of South Africa just east of Cape Town, and it is the primary location for winemaking and wine research in the country.  It is known for producing high quality Pinotage and Chenin Blanc (locally known as Steen) wines.  The region has a Mediterranean climate with hot dry summers and cool wet winters.  As Stellenbosch lies at the foot of the Cape Fold Mountains, the soil ranges from light and sandy to decomposed granite, ideal for growing quality wine grapes.  Stellenbosch University is also one of the world’s leading institutions in the study of wine. 

About the Winemaker:

Abrie Beeslaar is the head winemaker at Kanonkop.  A Stellenbosch University graduate in viniculture and viticulture, Abrie joined Kanonkop in 2002 and quickly showed an understanding of the estate’s wines and their styles.  In 2008, he was voted the International Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine and Spirits Competition’s (IWSC) gala award ceremony in London.

Winemaker’s Notes:

A full bodied wine with ripe, sweet banana and berry flavours. This wine shows remarkable complexity with soft grape tannins and a long dry finish. Classic in style.


 

Beaucastel Cotes-du-Rhone 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $26
Second Label of Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Retail Price of Chateauneuf-du-Pape: $90


Varietal: 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah, 20% Cinsault
Cooperage: 6-8 months in large oak barrels (blended after aging)
Alcohol: 14%

Tasting Notes:

The Beaucastel Cotes-du-Rhones is truly one of my favorite wines.  If I had to pick a “house” red wine, this would be it.  I will admit that the 2008 vintage is a far cry from the 2007, but it’s also priced accordingly. 

This is an unfiltered wine with generous amounts of cherries, raspberries, pepper and spice and earthy qualities like clove and star anise.  But the one overriding profile is the stewed prunes and ripe figs.  Oh the stewed prunes!  It’s a lovely, balanced wine that gives you a hint of its big brother for a fraction of the price.

At the end of the day what makes this such an amazing wine is the attention of the winemaker to incorporate the four key southern Rhone grapes.  All too often we are stuck with Cotes-du-Rhones made with only Grenache and Syrah.  Mourvedre and Cinsault are not afterthoughts, just like Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot are not afterthoughts in well-made Bordeaux.  This is a wine of great value and great sophistication for a song.

The 2008 Beaucastel Cotes-du-Rhone can be found online through our Wine Shop.  In the Austin area, look for it at both Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This Cotes-du-Rhone is a divine pairing with braised short ribs.  Yes, I know that Zinfandel or 100% Syrah might be the textbook pairing, but just trust me on this one and you won’t be sorry.  You might also try braised rabbit, stewed or grilled lamb, duck confit or my dark horse pick – venison sausage.  This is just a great wine.  Enjoy it!

About Coudoulet de Beaucastel:

The A7 highway literally divides what is the Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape appellation from the Coudoulet de Beaucastel vineyard which is a lowly Cotes-du-Rhone.  It does not take much imagination to see why the Coudoulet de Beaucastel is referred to as the “Baby Beaucastel.”  The soil is the same.  The climate is the same.  The grapes are the same.  The winemaker is the same. 

I believe the reason the Coudoulet de Beaucastel is such a fantastic Cotes-du-Rhone is because of its high percentage of Mourvedre in the final blend.  Unlike most other Cotes-du-Rhone that relies almost entirely on Grenache and Syrah, the Beaucastel offers something much more complex and balanced.  

About Chateau Beaucastel:

The ground at Chateau Beaucastel tells a history of the region.  It consists of sandstone and a great number of large rounded stones, known as galets, which is a testament to the time when the Rhone River was violent and brought down bits of the Alps into this part of southern France.  These galets absorb the heat during the day and then radiate it back to the vines at night which produce the rich, high-sugar grapes of the southern Rhone. 

Approximately ¾ of Chateau Beaucastel is in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and the other ¼ is simply Cotes-du-Rhone.  The primary difference between the Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape and the Cotes-due-Rhone is the fact that the Chateauneuf-du-Pape uses all 13 legally authorized grape varietals while the Cotes-du-Rhone only incorporates 4. 

The story of the Beaucastel family beings in Courthezon in the middle of the sixteenth century.  Two centuries later at the time of the phylloxera, the owner of Beaucastel was Elie Dussaud, a companion of Ferdinand de Lesseps who built the Suez Canal.  In 1909 Pierre Tramier bought the property and Beaucastel then passed to his son-in-law, Pierre Perrin, a scientist who considerably increased the vineyard holdings.  His efforts were continued by Jacques Perrin and his sons Jean and Francois Pierre. Today Thomas and Matthieu Pierre represent the fifth generation in this dynasty.

 

Perrin & Fils Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2009

Picture

Retail Price: $12
Second Label of Perrin & Fils Gigondas or Vacqueyras
Retail Price of Gigondas or Vacqueyras: $27

Varietal Content: 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah
Alcohol: 13%

Tasting Notes:

This is a follow up review on the Beaucastel Cotes-du-Rhone that we posted last week.  Click here to read last week’s review.  The Perrin & Fils Cotes-du-Rhone Villages might be called a cousin of the Beaucastel, because it is produced by the same people, the Perrin Family, using the same viticultural and winemaking techniques.  More importantly for people who don’t want to drop $26 for the Beaucastel, this is also a great bottle of wine at $12. 

Rather than considering this a second wine of a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, it would be more appropriate to call this a second wine of Perrin & Fils Gigondas or Vacqueyras due to the blend of approximately 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah.

This wine is deep ruby in color and its primary profile is dark fruit like black currant, black cherry and plum.  You’ll also find the signature pepper, clove and spice of Rhone red wines.  It’s well balanced with soft tannins and a long finish.  While it doesn’t have near the complexity of the Beaucastel, this is a great value. 

You can find the 2009 Perrin & Fils Cotes du Rhone Villages online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Not to be redundant, but this Cotes-du-Rhone Villages would work lovely with braised short ribs.  You might also try braised rabbit, stewed or grilled lamb, duck confit or my dark horse pick – venison sausage.  This is a great wine. 

About Cotes du Rhone Villages:

The difference between Cotes-du-Rhone and Cotes-du-Rhone Villages is not trivial.  Only 20% of Cotes-du-Rhone vineyards are entitled to add the word “Villages” on the label.  These wines are from specific village areas that have a few more standards the wine must reach to receive this recognition.  What is great about Côtes-du-Rhône Villages for value-minded drinkers is that big producers of the smaller appellations, such as Gigondas or Vacqueyras, are taking the opportunity and freedom offered by this broad appellation and creating wines of very high quality, and lower in price.

About Chateau Beaucastel:

The ground at Chateau Beaucastel tells a history of the region.  It consists of sandstone and a great number of large rounded stones, known as galets, which is a testament to the time when the Rhone River was violent and brought down bits of the Alps into this part of southern France.  These galets absorb the heat during the day and then radiate it back to the vines at night which produce the rich, high-sugar grapes of the southern Rhone. 

Approximately ¾ of Chateau Beaucastel is in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and the other ¼ is simply Cotes-du-Rhone.  The primary difference between the Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape and the Cotes-due-Rhone is the fact that the Chateauneuf-du-Pape uses all 13 legally authorized grape varietals while the Cotes-du-Rhone only incorporates 4. 

The story of the Beaucastel family begins in Courthezon in the middle of the sixteenth century.  Two centuries later at the time of the phylloxera, the owner of Beaucastel was Elie Dussaud, a companion of Ferdinand de Lesseps who built the Suez Canal.  In 1909 Pierre Tramier bought the property and Beaucastel then passed to his son-in-law, Pierre Perrin, a scientist who considerably increased the vineyard holdings.  His efforts were continued by Jacques Perrin and his sons Jean and Francois Pierre. Today Thomas and Matthieu Pierre represent the fifth generation in this dynasty.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Dark ruby color, with purple reflections. Intense nose of macerated cherries and licorice. In the mouth the wine is full-bodied with a generous attack, a pleasant freshness and elegant tannins. This well-balanced wine shows a typical expression of southern Rhône wine with thyme and rosemary aftertaste.

 

Edge Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $20
Second Label of Signorello
Retail Price of Signorello: $50

Varietal: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot
Fruit Source: 100% Napa Valley
Cooperage: 16 months in French and American oak (30% new)
Alcohol: 14.4%

Tasting Notes:


I’m very excited about this wine, because it represents the best value we’ve posted on this website to date.  While technically not a second label of Signorello, Edge is a side project between Ray Signorello Jr. and three of his childhood friends, so the pedigree is certainly there.

This Napa Cabernet is deep ruby in color and is bursting with aromas of dark berries such as black current, black cherry and raspberry.  There are also hints of ripe strawberry and chocolate with a vanilla bean undertone.  The palate brings in the pepper and spice and well integrated oak.  I really like how the winemaker balanced the oak and grape tannins.  This is a well made wine that blows away most other Cabernet Sauvignon in this price range.  For $20, I’d buy it by the case. 

You can find the 2008 Edge Cabernet Sauvignon online through our Wine Shop.  In the Austin area, it’s also available at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I’d like to take this Edge and pair it with a beautiful rib eye cooked medium rare with some veggies on the side.  Serve that to your special someone and you’re good to go for the night.  It simply doesn’t get any sexier than a big hunk of red meat and a stunning bottle of wine.  For a little less amorous pairing try it with a nice hamburger or a roasted rack of lamb.  Because there is a touch of sweetness in the wine, I could also see bringing this out at dessert with a dark chocolate soufflé. 


About Edge:

Edge Wines was formed as a partnership between Ray Signorello, Jr. and three of his childhood friends.  Signorello
began his journey as winemaker and vineyard owner in the Napa Valley during the mid 1980's.  Ray's father, Ray Sr., initiated the vineyard project during the mid 1970's by purchasing the 100-acre estate located on the Silverado Trail. Ray Sr. worked side by side with Ray Jr. until his passing in the fall of 1998.

The Signorellos' original plan was to grow quality grapes to sell to existing wineries, but the harvest of 1985 changed this plan into a new level of evolvement. The bountiful crop allowed the Signorellos to custom crush the excess grapes.

In 1986 the Signorellos began the second phase of the venture; this was the building of the main winery structure.  The decade of the nineties proved to be pivotal for Signorello Estate. In 1990 the first planting of red varietals began on the property- Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah.

About Napa Valley:

The first commercial vineyard was established in Napa Valley in 1858, but due to the outbreak of phylloxera, the institution of Prohibition and the Great Depression, wine making in Napa didn’t really take off until the 1970’s.  In fact, it was the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 (see Chad’s Recommending Wine Reading List at the top of the page) that really catapulted Napa Valley onto the world stage when a Napa Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon bested numerous famous French labels in a blind tasting. 

Napa Valley is flanked by the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and north and the Vaca Mountains to the east.  The soil contains large amounts of volcanic lava and ash.  There are over 450 wineries in the Napa AVA today and an acre of prime vineyard land goes for more than $200,000, up from only $5,000 in 1970.

About the Winemaking Process:

After destemming and crushing the Cabernet Sauvignon is fermented in four and eight ton temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, a blend of cultured and native yeast are allowed to do the fermentation. The cap, (skins and pulp that rise to the surface during fermentation) is hand punched down or pumped over three times each day. The red wines go through extended maceration periods, usually 25 to 35 days, to allow for a more natural balance of fruit and tannins. The juice of the grapes is then pressed off the skins and settled in stainless steel tanks for two days. The wine is then inoculated for malolactic fermentation and racked into French and American oak barrels. The barrels are (medium-plus toast) from Seguin Moreau, Taransaud, Demptos and Radoux. The Cabernet Sauvignon remains in the barrels an average of 16 months and is blended with Merlot. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

This supple and lush wine immediately opens to flavors of blackberry, clove and hints of vanilla. The medium bodied palate is balanced with flavors of eucalyptus, sweet plums, ripe cherry and hints of tobacco, while the finish is accentuated by nice acidity and subtle oak flavors. Drinkability: Now to 2015

Harvest Notes:

The 2008 growing season started off with intense storms, but quickly disappeared by spring as the valley received about 60% of normal rainfall. The spring produced one of the longest front periods of the last 30 years with over 21 days at below freezing and caused many sleepless nights. A cold spring turned to triple digit heat in early summer. From a season that might have set a larger than normal crop, after fruit set, fewer clusters with smaller berries appeared to be the norm. A week-long heat spell in early September ratcheted up the picking and all fruit decided to be ready at once. Overall, the 2008 crop will have lower yields, but will be of the highest quality.

 

Nelms Road Merlot 2006

Picture
Retail Price: $23                   
Second Label of Woodward Canyon                   
Retail Price of Woodward Canyon: $37


Varietal Content: 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Barbera, 1% Syrah
Alcohol: 14.5%
Bottled: May 2007

Release Date: Spring 2008

Tasting Notes:

The 2006 Nelms Road Merlot needed a good decanting as there was considerable sediment present in the bottle.  Once it opened up, the wine packed a punch on the nose with tons of prunes, black mission figs and black cherry.  I also detected green bell pepper, rose petal and molasses.  This is a medium bodied wine with mild tannins and a pleasant tartness that offers a good value.  While it is not my favorite Washington State offering, I believe that Washington wines are some of the best value wines in the world at the moment.  Along with Spain and Argentina, you will generally get incredible bang for your buck here. 

The 2006 Nelms Road Merlot can be found online through various sources at Snooth.com.  In the Austin area, both Twin Liquors Marketplace locations (41st & Red River at Hancock Center and Highway 71 West at Bee Caves) had the 2006 vintage in stock at last check.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This Nelms Road is a fairly simple wine, so think of pairing it with fairly simple foods.  It would be an excellent accompaniment to a pepperoni pizza or pasta with Bolognese sauce.  I think any type of thick cut of pork would work well with it in addition to a fillet mignon or grilled steak or maybe even some lamb chops.  Just be careful not to choose a cut of beef that is too fatty as this is only a moderately tannic wine.

About Nelms Road:

Nelms Road is the second label of Woodward Canyon, a winery located in Lowden, Washington which was started by Rick and Darcey Small in 1981.  In addition to their own 41-acre estate vineyard, Woodward Canyon is a joint owner of one of the state’s oldest vineyards, Champoux Vineyard.  Today they produce approximately 17,000 cases of wine a year, 7,000 of which is bottled as Nelms Road.  Nelms Road offers a Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon made with grapes from young vineyards or from declassified Woodward Canyon juice. 

About the Walla Walla Valley:

Located in southeast Washington State overlapping into Oregon, the Walla Walla Valley is, for all intents and purposes, a desert thanks to the towering Cascade Mountains which block most of the rain that comes in off the Pacific.  The result is a long, sunny growing season of 190 to 220 days where producers control the amount of water the vines receive through irrigation.  The soil type is primarily calcareous silt.

Vines were first planted in the Walla Walla Valley by Italian immigrants in the 1850’s, but not many people paid attention to the region until a few years ago.  As recently as 1990, there were only 4 working wineries in the region.  Today there are nearly 100 wineries and over 1,600 acres under vine in the appellation.

Although the Walla Walla Valley has been primarily known for Riesling and Merlot, in recent years it has also been producing some world-class Syrah.

About the Winemaker:

Kevin Mott graduated from The College of Idaho with a degree in Chemistry. He began his career in the wine industry in 1986 at Ste. Chapelle Winery in Caldwell, Idaho, progressing from Cellar Worker and Laboratory Technician to Winemaker. In 1999 he was responsible for the development of Chalone Wine Group's Sagelands Vineyard in Washington's Yakima Valley and acted as General Manager and Winemaker until moving to Canoe Ridge Vineyard in 2002. Mott served as Winemaker there, overseeing both winery and vineyard operations. He came to Woodward Canyon in the summer of 2003 as Winemaker.

Winemaker’s Notes:

This newest bottling of Nelms Road Merlot reflects the 2006 vintage very well. The Spring Creek and Weinbau vineyards continue to produce better merlot grapes allowing us to produce better wine nearly every year. Add to that some truly phenomenal press wine from some of the oldest and most celebrated vineyards in Washington such as Champoux and Woodward Canyon, and we can produce an amazing Nelms Road Merlot.

The warm 2006 vintage gave beautifully ripe fruit with flavors of dried black fruits, cassis, and Bing cherry. Aromas of subtle herb, spices, and vanilla integrate with the fruit, leading to a nice generous finish. The wine is dark purple in color. This wine was bottled early to retain fruit and is quite drinkable for a wine so young. While this wine was produced for early consumption I do believe that it will improve with additional time in bottle.


Merlot Update:

Since we’re on the subject of Merlot this week (see Nelms Road review below), I want to share a really unique experience I had on Saturday night with a couple of friends, Leah and Zlatan.  Zlatan is Swiss Italian, so he brought out a series of Swiss wines, none of which I had ever heard of, much less tasted.  The highlight was definitely the Merlot from the Ticino region, the only Italian-speaking canton in Switzerland. 

The 2007 Sassi Grossi from the Gialdi family drank more like a well-made right bank Bordeaux with flavors of vanilla, stewed dark fruit like prunes as well as black berries, pepper and spice.  We also had a 2007 Malvaglia Merlot, again from the Gialdi family, that almost reminded me of a great Cru Beaujolais.  It was a medium bodied, fresh wine with lovely ripe cherries and strawberries on the nose.  The primary difference between the two seemed to be the source of the Merlot grapes (higher, cooler climate vineyards vs. lower altitude vineyards with warmer temperatures) and the cooperage techniques (large oak casks vs. small French barriques).  I was impressed with the structure of the wines and the diversity of styles for one varietal. 

Not to be outdone by the reds, we also drank a 2009 Ronco Bain from Guido Brivio which is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.  It was another impressive wine with a nose that wouldn’t stop with tons of great tropical fruit like pineapple and passion fruit.  It also had notes of grapefruit, peach and lemon in addition to a floral undertone.

So here’s the problem – it seems that you cannot procure these wines in the United States.  Leah and Zlatan tell me it’s impossible and my independent search has also turned up no leads.  If anyone out there happens to know how to track down these lovely Swiss Italian wines in the U.S., please drop me a line.  I will be forever in your debt and you might even get a bottle of wine out of the deal as a finder’s fee.

 

Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $12
Second Label of Vavasour
Retail Price of Vavasour: $18

Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fruit Source: Awatere and Wairau Valleys

Aging: 100% Stainless Steel
Alcohol: 13%

Tasting Notes:

This straw colored Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent representation of the Marlborough style.  It is crisp with a pleasant tartness and great acidity.  On the nose you’ll find plenty of floral notes along with great tropical fruit such as lychee and passion fruit.  I also get quite a bit of melon and lime in this wine. 

I would not hesitate to plop down $12 for this little guy.  It’s not particularly complex, but it’s well balanced and would certainly be a great wine to buy in bulk for a party or for just sipping on the patio on a hot summer day.

You can find the 2009 Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The most important thing to note when pairing food with this wine is acid.  This Dashwood is a high acid wine, so you want to use it to compliment high acid foods or to cut through cream or butter on heavier dishes.  I tend to prefer high acid dishes with Sauvignon Blanc, so I’d suggest things like ceviche, boiled shrimp or oysters on the half shell.  My favorite dish with this wine, however, would be a simple green salad with a vinaigrette dressing topped with a medallion of fried goat cheese.  You could also just eat a bunch of goat cheese with this wine as goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc are as near to a perfect pairing as you will ever find.

About Dashwood:

Dashwood is the second label of Vavasour Wines.  Given the commitment to using the Vavasour brand for wines true to the Awatere Valley, Dashwood provides the flexibility to blend Awatere fruit with that of nearby Wairau Valley.


The Vavasour family traces their ancestry back to the Norman invasion of England.  They arrived in New Zealand and established themselves in the Awatere Valley in 1890. Nearly a century later in 1985, Peter Vavasour identified the Awatere Valley as the new frontier for New Zealand wine growing and planted the first grapes there. Vavasour’s first vintage was 1989.

Vavasour’s 196-acre estate vineyards are located in one of the marquee sites for growing grapes in the Awatere Valley. The climate here is noteworthy for its wide diurnal temperature swings; the soils are low in fertility and comprised of stones and pebbles mixed with clay and loam. The rainfall ranges from 11-16 inches a year.

About Marlborough:

When the first growers planted grapes in Marlborough in the 1970s, it is unlikely they would have foreseen the extent of the growth and fame that the region’s wine industry would achieve, based upon a single varietal called Sauvignon Blanc. The distinctive pungency and zest fruit flavors of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc sparked worldwide interest and has continued to fuel a regional wine boom.  Marlborough currently has 23,600 hectares of land planted with grapes and accounts for 79% of New Zealand’s total wine production. These plantings are primarily located within the Wairau Valley.  Over the last decade, viticulture has also spread southeast into the smaller slightly cooler Awatere Valley. 


Located on the east coast with mountains to the west, Marlborough is one of New Zealand’s sunniest and driest areas.  In these bright, but relatively cool climate conditions, the grapes have the advantage of a long slow, flavor-intensifying ripening period.  Within the region, viticulture has been developed primarily on sites with moderately low fertility and a noticeably stony, sandy loam top soil overlying deep layers of free-draining shingle.  Where a more herbaceous style is desired, sites with greater water retentive soils and moderate fertility are chosen.

About the Winemaker:

Stu Marfell grew up on a 2,000-acre farm a few miles from Vavasour in Marlborough. When not drenching and shearing sheep, Stu and his three brothers could be found swimming and fishing in the Awatere River.  In 2003, after earning his degree in Viticulture and Oenology from Lincoln University in Christchurch, New Zealand, Stu landed the assistant winemaker’s position at Vavasour Winery. He became winemaker in 2007.  Stu met his wife Emily through the Wairau Rowing Club in Marlborough. Both are exercise and outdoor fanatics and travel junkies. Stu also plays a mean ukulele.

Winemaker’s Notes:

This classically styled wine shows lifted melon, citrus and fresh tropical notes on the nose. These flavors follow through to the richly structured palate which has a long crisp finish. Blending fruit from both the Awatere and Wairau Valley regions of Marlborough benefits the wine with aromatics being enhanced by the Wairau Valley component and a mineral note being imparted from the Awatere Valley component.

 

Ghost Pines Zinfandel 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $15
Second Label of Louis M. Martini
Retail Price of Martini: $40

Varietal Content: 86% Zinfandel, 11% Petite Syrah, 3% Syrah
Appellations: 85% Sonoma County, 15% San Joaquin County
Alcohol: 14.7%


Tasting Notes:

Although Zinfandel is not native to North America (it actually comes from a Croatian grape called Crljenak Kastelanski), it is rarely found elsewhere in the world owing to its fondness for our soil.  If there is such a thing as the “American Wine Grape,” then Zinfandel must be it; a loud, brash, confident sort of wine that finds its fullest expression in California. 

This Ghost Pines is a good representation of Zinfandel.  Dark ruby in color, the nose on this bottle is loaded with dark fruit along with fresh bay laurel and rhubarb.  The first thing that came to mind when I put my nose in the glass was the smell of fresh cranberry sauce just before it’s done, when it is boiling and starts to foam.  I love that aroma.  There’s something about this wine that just smells, well, American.  This is a fun wine, so don’t overcomplicate it.  Decant it for 30 minutes so that it can open up fully and enjoy.

You can find the Ghost Pines Zinfandel online through various sources at Wine-Searcher.com.  In the Austin area, look for it at Specs or Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.    

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The nose on this Zinfandel is crazy and just got my mind firing off all sorts of junk food to pair with it.  The first thing I thought of was a grilled all-beef hot dog with all the fixings.  That was followed closely by a savory sausage pizza or just sausage in general (mild to medium – nothing too spicy with this wine).  A nice accompaniment to the sausage would be dark greens like kale, collard greens or spinach.  Finally, my wild card pairing is street-style authentic barbacoa tacos.  Viva Zinfandel!

About Ghost Pines:

Ghost Pines is the second label of Louis M. Martini, a Napa Valley winery that has been run by the Martini family since 1933.  Louis traveled to San Francisco at the age of 12 from his home near Genoa, Italy to help his father who sold fresh seafood to local merchants.  At 19, he returned to Italy to study winemaking and then returned to California to begin making his own.  He passed the reigns to his son and today Louis’ grandson is the winemaker.  Louis M. Martini has four estate vineyards and sources their grapes from both Napa and Sonoma Counties.

About Sonoma County:

The birthplace of the California wine industry, winemaking began in Sonoma County in the early 1800’s when Russian colonists and Franciscan monks planted the region’s first vines.  But it wasn’t until the 1960’s that a thriving wine industry developed, and even still it was known primarily as a producer of dairy, grains and other fruits throughout most of the twentieth century.  Today Sonoma County contains 13 unique appellations and grows more than 50 grape varietals including 6,000 acres of Zinfandel.

Bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west and the Mayacamas Mountains on the east which separate it from Napa Valley, the climate of Sonoma County is very moderate with cool days and nights and only the occasional temperature extreme.  The Russian River is the body of water that flows through the county moderating the climate. 

About the Winemaker:

Mike Martini grew up in his father and grandfather’s vineyards of Napa Valley.  A graduate of the winemaking program at U.C. Davis, Mike worked alongside his father before taking over the reins as winemaker in 1977.  He also studied artisan winemaking techniques in Bordeaux and Burgundy.  Much of what he learned there went into the micro-winery he recently built a hundred yards from his office where he experiments with small batches of wine year around.

Winemaker’s Notes:

The grapes were destemmed, but not crushed, allowing mainly whole berries in the fermentor, which helps to eliminate bitterness while maximizing fresh fruit character. The must was fermented in conesweep, upright, and rotary fermentors, and maintained a temperature no more than 85°F for six to ten days. The skins were allowed full contact during the entire fermentation period, in order to attain optimal extraction of color and flavor in the finished wine. A portion of the wine was aged on fine lees to develop flavor and round out the mouthfeel, but was racked after a few months to retain the fresh fruit flavors and aromas.  The result is our 2008 Ghost Pines Zinfandel, opening with bright flavors of strawberry jam and ripe plum, and aromas of vanilla bean and mocha. Full and balanced, our Zinfandel boasts rich, chewy tannins that lead to a long and supple finish.

Harvest Notes:

The challenging 2008 growing season began in Sonoma with unusually dry weather in late winter and spring with an unexpected frost in late April. As the vines were beginning to bloom in May, an extended heat wave set a smaller crop than normal in the vineyards. However, the end of spring and the summer months were typically moderate and warm with few heat spikes, which provided perfect conditions for the ripening of the grapes. Harvest began earlier than usual in August and picking rapidly increased as a heat wave in early September caused wine grapes to quickly ripen. The weather cooled in late September and harvest was complete by the end of October with minimal challenges. Yields were lower than previous vintages, but the result was fruit of excellent quality with intensity and depth.

 

Alto Moncayo Veraton 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $29
Second Label of Alto Moncayo
Retail Price of Alto Moncayo: $45

Varietal: 100% Garnacha
Fruit Source: Campo de Borja D.O.

Cooperage: 17 months in new French and American oak

Alcohol: 15.5%

Tasting Notes:


I can’t say enough about Jorge Ordonez.  For those who don’t know the name take note, because he is the preeminent importer of the best wines from one of the world most undervalued wine regions – Spain.  Beginning in the 1980’s, he started bringing high quality Spanish wines to the U.S. and today he imports over 130 wines from 40 different wineries.  When you see the “Jorge Ordonez Selection” label on the back of a bottle; odds are you’re holding a winner.

This Veraton is no exception.  Made with 100% Garnacha grapes (Grenache in French; the main varietal in Southern Rhone wines), it is a deep ruby colored powerhouse that still provides great finesse and balance.  On the nose, you’ll find stewed prunes, black cherry, blackberry and peppercorn, balanced out with the earthiness of tobacco.  The oak is well integrated with caramel and toast notes, and it has a big, long finish with ample grape tannin. 

The first label is one of my favorite wines, and while this Veraton isn’t quite in the same category, it is a sensational value.  However, if you’re still thinking $29 is a bit pricey for a bottle of wine, my next suggestion would be the Atteca Garnacha for $16.  It comes from a different winery, but it’s also an Ordonez wine and it displays many of the same characteristics that I look for in a good Spanish Granacha. 

You can find the 2008 Alto Moncayo Veraton and the 2008 Atteca Granacha online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:
Go to the butcher right now and pick up some lamb or pork chops.  Chops are a must because of that great strip of fat they have on them.  Then fire up the grill and get a good char on that fat before serving it up with this Veraton.  After that meal, you’ll be prepared to meet your maker because it might not get too much better.  For a less earth shattering, but still tasty, experience look to drink this wine with a variety of grilled sausages like Spanish merguez, a kielbasa or perhaps some blood sausage. 

About Alto Moncayo:

The Alto Moncayo winery is a joint venture of Jose Miguel San Martin, Jorge Ordonez, Bodegas Borsao and Dan Phillips in conjunction with Chris Ringland. The winery is located in the town of Bulbuente which has only 237 residents.

The grapes for Alto Moncayo wines are sourced from 153.2 acres of old clone Garnacha vines planted on hillside vineyards oriented to the southwest. A few of the vineyards are terraced. All the vines are en vaso (bush) trained. The vineyards are located in 3 villages with very unique soils of red clay (indicative of being rich in iron) mixed with red slate. Because of its hillside location the soils are very poor in organic matter and shallow.

The vinification process begins in the vineyard where only the most perfectly mature bunches are hand selected beginning at the end of September finishing in mid-October. The fully matured bunches are harvested into small boxes to prevent bruising the fruit. Then the grapes are immediately taken to triage tables at the winery.  The selected grapes are placed into small open vat fermenters that hold only 4tons per batch where the must is basket pressed.

About Campo de Borja:


Campo de Borja is an appellation located in the Spanish province of Zaragoza (Aragon).  The Moncayo Mountain is the dominant feature of the appellation and creates a microclimate that gives the grapes unique character.

The continental climate provides hot summers and cold winters.  The temperature varies a great deal, both on a daily and on a seasonal basis.  There is also scant rainfall.

There are currently about 15,500 acres under vines which are cultivated both as low bushes (en vaso) and also on trellises (en espaldera).  The authorized red grapes in the appellation are Garnacha, Tempranillo, Mazuela, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, while the authorized white grapes are Macabeo and Moscatel. 

About the Winemaker:

Australian winemaker Chris Ringland leads the winemaking team at Alto Moncayo.  Chris is a busy man, working as winemaker for Alto Moncayo and El Nido in Spain as well as 3 Rings, Pillar Box Red, RBJ, Rockford and Marquis Philips in Australia.  Additionally he has consulted with Greenock Creek and Hobbs over the last two decades.

Winemaker’s Notes:

This wine exudes the sweet smell of oak with a hint of cedar. The mouth is soft and fruity, having a lusciousness that is true to the house style. This wine is 100% Garnacha.


 

Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $30
Second Wine of Zenato Amarone
Retail Price of Amarone: $70

Varietal: 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella, 10% Sangiovese

Cooperage: 18 months in small oak and large Slavonian oak barrels
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:


One of my favorite wines in the world is a well-made Amarone.  They are produced using a technique that essentially involves drying the grapes until they are raisins before pressing them, which creates incredibly concentrated, rich flavors.  The problem is that Amarone is a very expensive wine and the cheaper ones are of poor quality.  That’s why I love the Ripasso.  Literally meaning “re-pass,” it is a Valpolicella that is fermented a second time on the leftover skins of the Amarone.  I like to call it a poor man’s Amarone, but the truth is that a Ripasso from a reputable winery is of much higher quality than some of the lower-end Amarones.

This Zenato Ripassa (the only winery to call their "Ripasso" a "Ripassa") is a deep ruby red and offers rich, elegant aromas that linger far longer than I would expect.  The dried fruit is predominant, such as raisins, prunes, cherries and dark berries like blackberries and raspberries.  There is also a scent of vanilla and steamed banana leaf.  The wine is so concentrated in flavor it almost has a balsamic quality to it.  It has a velvety texture and a long, long, long finish.  I love this wine. 

You can find the 2007 Zenato Ripassa online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This wine would be a perfect pairing with game meats like elk and antelope.  In fact, we did a dinner party recently with a dish that would have worked well; a
Braised Antelope Hind Quarter on Blue Cheese Cauliflower Mash and Shaved Brussel Sprouts.  Click here to see photos and descriptions of the courses and pairings from that dinner party.  This could also go really well with mushroom-based dishes or aged dried meats.  You could also just drink it alone with a loaf of rich bread like a roasted garlic focaccia dipped in olive oil. 

The bottom line with a wine of this intensity is that you need to double down on the flavor of your food.  Whatever you’re cooking, it needs a reduction sauce or other strong, concentrated flavors to stand up to the wine.

About Zenato:

The Azienda Zenato is owned by the Zenato family. Sergio Zenato founded it in 1960, motivated by his passion for wine and by the devotion to quality he had learned from his father Silvino.  Sergio Zenato pours into the making of his wines his energy and his talent, animated by an absolute passion for quality and by the determination to constantly eclipse past results. He has poured his efforts into the land as well, experimenting with new vineyard plantings. The crafting of his wines becomes a kind of ritual, which he celebrates together with his two children, Alberto and Nadia.


The Zenato family estate vineyard is in the area of Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella. The fruit of significant investment, it covers the equivalent of 20 hectares, planted to the classic Valpolicella grape varieties of corvina and rondinella. The vineyards were planted in 1975 and utilize the Guyot training system.

About Valpolicella:

Valpolicella is located in the Italian province of Verona east of Lake Garda.  It ranks just after Chianti in total Italian appellation wine production.  The red wines are all produced primarily using the Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grape varietals. 

Winemaking in the region has existed since at least the time of the ancient Greeks.  The name Valpolicella appeared in charters in the mid 12th century, combining two valleys previously thought of independently.  It achieved DOC appellation status in 1968. 

The vineyard soils range from gravel near Lake Garda to alluvial in the fertile central plains.  Towards the east near the Soave appellation are several areas featuring volcanic soil.  The most favorably situated vineyards are located in the Monti Lessini foothills in the “classico” zone where the altitude is between 490 and 1,500 feet above sea level.

About the Winemaking Process:

Following manual harvesting, crushing and destemming, the fruit is given the traditional 5-6-day maceration on the skins in stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, the wine is pressed off and the press wine set aside. Upon completion of malolactic fermentation, maturation follows in oak barrels. It is then kept in stainless steel until February, when the dried grapes are crushed to produce Amarone.  Now the Valpolicella is “re-passed” over the Amarone pomace, given a 10-day maceration period at 25-30°C.   This second fermentation raises the alcohol and gives the wine deeper color, richer body and aromas.  An 18-month maturation follows, with part of the wine in small oak, some in larger Slavonian oak cases. A carefully-monitored 6 months’ bottle-ageing completes the process.

 

Pargua II 2006

Picture
Retail Price: $17.50                  
Second Label of Pargua                 
Retail Price of Pargua: $38


Varietal Content: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Carmenere, 15% Syrah, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Fruit Source: 100% Estate grown
Alcohol: 14.9%

Tasting Notes:

If you want to drink a wine that makes you think, then pick up the Pargua II.  Rarely have I seen a wine that changes so much in the glass as it opens up.  I would suggest opening the bottle and drinking it slowly over a few hours.  The fruit is there immediately with scents of plum, strawberry and raspberry.  Next comes the green bell pepper and vanilla, and finally after it’s been open for some time, you get hit with loads of chocolate and eucalyptus as though the wine got a second wind.  There is also ample oak on this wine, but it’s well integrated and not overpowering.  It’s a big wine with chewy tannins and a long finish, but I think it’s very unique and a great value.

You can find the 2006 Pargua II online through our Wine Shop.  In the Austin area, it’s also available at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Just about any steak will do with this wine, lean or fatty, as long as it’s not cooked beyond medium rare.  If it’s overcooked, especially a lean steak, it will be a disaster of a pairing.  Along with the steak, I’d serve any number of well-seasoned wilted dark greens such as spinach, kale or collard greens.  My final choice for a food with the Pargua II is braised pork belly.  I think that would be a lovely match.

About Pargua II:

Pargua II is the second label of Pargua, a wine made by Jean-Pascal Lacaze of Domus Aurea.  The label artwork was created by renowned Chilean artist Benjamin Lira, who took his inspiration from the word Pargua, meaning “full moon” in the Mapuche language.  The artwork will change with each new vintage. 

About Maipo Valley:

The Maipo Valley is considered the home of Chilean wine as it was here that their first wines were produced in the mid-1500’s.  Being drier and warmer than other Chilean wine regions like Casablanca, Leyda and San Antonio, Maipo is best suited to red grape varietals, notably Cabernet Sauvignon.  Carmenere is also widely planted in the Maipo Valley, and until the mid-1990’s was regularly being bottled as Merlot until lab testing confirmed that is was, in fact, one of the Bordeaux varietals which was lost due to the phylloxera epidemic.  Chile’s isolation and location between a large body of water and a large mountain range prevented the spread of phylloxera into its vineyards.   

The rainfall in the Maipo Valley is very low, and the climate is both warm and dry, so the advent of technological advances in winemaking in the 1980’s brought an element of consistency to Chilean wines.  Drip irrigation gives growers a weapon against extended droughts, while stainless steel tanks and oak barrels allow controlled fermentation and quality aging.

About the Winemaker:

Jean‐Pascal Lacaze developed an early taste for wine when his grandfather served the family’s Bordeaux wine in his feeding bottle.  He eventually tried his hand at winemaking with a number of properties in Saint‐Emilion. While working, Jean‐Pascal received his masters in Economics which led to an opportunity in Uruguay to train in business administration.

After spending two years in South America, Jean‐Pascal returned to Saint‐Emilion for the 2002 harvest at Château Plaisance, then headed to Chile to work at famed vineyard Clos Quebrada de Macul, best known for the award‐winning Cabernet Sauvignon Domus Aurea. There, he took the post of Chief Winemaker and General Manager.

Jean‐Pascal is also the winemaker for Anka, Pargua and Peñalolen, members of the Clos Quebrada de Macul family of wines.

Winemaker’s Notes:

This quaffable, moderately priced “sequel” to Pargua’s limited-production wine is made with a bright blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 15% Carmenère, 15% Syrah, and 8% Cabernet Franc. It offers a juicy texture supported by integrated tannins and a generous finish of wild berries, dried fruit, and sweet spice.  An outstanding companion to grilled meats, eggplant, Moroccan food and spicy sauces. Less than 3,000 cases produced. 


 

Castelnau de Suduiraut 2003

Picture
Retail Price: $19
Second Label of Chateau Suduiraut
Retail Price of Suduiraut: $40

Varietal: 90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc

Grapes are affected by botrytis cinerea or “noble rot”
Cooperage: 2 years in French oak
Alcohol: 14%

Tasting Notes:

This Castelnau is the second label of a first growth Sauternes estate and it shows.  The lovely golden colored dessert wine is exploding with aromas of honey, vanilla, nectar and stewed apricots.  The wine is low in acid, and it does not have the overpowering sweetness that you find so often in dessert wines.  Instead this wine is very complex and balanced and can easily be drunk alone or with a variety of desserts.  Once again, Sauternes proves that it is unrivaled in the world of sweet wine production.  Drinking this wine was a real treat.

The 2003 Castelnau de Suduiraut can be found online or in person at Specs.  You can also track it down online through various outlets on Snooth.com.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This Castelnau would go nicely with a wide variety of desserts as long as you keep in mind that the dessert cannot be sweeter than the wine.  You do not want to overpower it and miss out on its complexities.  I would recommend a berry tart, strawberry shortcake, buttermilk pie, crème brulee or anything with reduced apricots.  As a wild card, I could also see this being a huge hit with a Mexican dessert - sopaipillas covered with honey.  Alternately you could just drink it alone.  It would be a lovely liquid dessert.

About Castelnau de Suduiraut:

Castelnau de Suduiraut is the second label of Chateau de Suduiraut, a first growth in the Sauternes appellation.  Sauternes is a part of Bordeaux lying between the left bank of the Garonne River and the forests of the Landes only a few miles from Bordeaux city.

Chateau Suduiraut is situated in the commune of Preignac and has a vineyard which covers 227 acres on sandy clay soil.  At the end of the 17th Century the Comte Blaise de Suduiraut rebuilt the house and re-established the vineyard which had been devastated during the Fronde wars.  A little later, the magnificent gardens designed by André Le Nôtre were completed.  He was also responsible for the creation of the Sun King's gardens at the Palaces of Versailles and Tuileries in Paris.

The name Castelnau comes from a neighboring property which was purchased in 1831 and expanded the Suduiraut estate considerably.

About Noble Rot:

In autumn the proximity of the Ciron and Garonne rivers to Sauternes gives a micro climate characterized by misty mornings which are followed by warm, sunny afternoons.  This encourages the development on the grape of botrytis cineria, the famous noble rot.

The botrytis cinerea is a fungus which attacks well ripened grapes.  It casts a veil on the skin which absorbs moisture and helps the concentration of sugars.  Two stages characterize a grape with botrytis; the stage called “pourri plein” where the skin is covered in brown spots, and the stage called “roti” where the grape withers and begins to dry out.  The grapes are partially raisined and very rich in sugar making them ideal for the production of dessert wines.

This unique element of botrytis distinguishes these wines from others that derive their sweetness from fortification, drying or being harvested late.  Historically the region would average only three years a decade that produced the conditions needed for the noble rot to fully develop. The late 20th and early 21st centuries have been more fruitful with an average of six years with the needed conditions.

The production of Sauternes is very labor-intensive as harvest workers hand-pick individual berries, rather than bunches, that have been properly infected with the fungus. This may require several trips throughout the vineyard over a couple of weeks.

The principal grape in Sauternes is Semillon; the very fine skin of the grape is particularly susceptible to the noble rot.  At Suduiraut Semillon comprises 90% of the vineyard and the balance is Sauvignon Blanc.

 

Trumpeter Malbec 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $10                  
Second Label of Felipe Rutini                   
Retail Price of Felipe Rutini: $17


Varietal: 100% Malbec
Cooperage: 7 months in 20% new American oak, 20% new French oak and 60% second and third vintage American oak
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:

The Trumpeter Malbec is a huge fruit bomb of a wine that is thoroughly pleasing for $10 a bottle.  It is deep purple in color with strawberry, raspberry, plum and ripe figs screaming from the glass.  I also found a substantial amount of cinnamon and vanilla.  There’s a lot of oak and the big, chewy tannins give it a long finish.  It’s a pretty straightforward wine, so I wouldn’t serve it at a state dinner, but in the proper context it’s an excellent value.

You can find the 2008 Trumpeter Malbec online through our Wine Shop.  In the Austin area, it’s also available at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

If you’re going to drink an Argentine wine, then you might as well do it with Argentine food.  They go perfectly together.  These big Malbecs need fatty grilled meat, and there’s nothing better for that than an Argentine street food classic – the choripan (sausage “chorizo” + bread “pan”).  If you’ve ever been to Argentina and didn’t eat one, then you’ve never been to Argentina.  In essence it’s a grilled sausage on a baguette topped with chimichurri, a type of salsa consisting of parsley, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and any number of other herbs and spices.  You can easily make these on the grill in the backyard, and if you want to take it to the next level substitute morcilla (blood sausage) for traditional sausage.  That will step up the richness and really compliment the wine. 

You can also serve this Trumpeter with just about any sort of grilled meat, assuming it is well seasoned (but not too spicy because of the tannins) and fairly fatty.  Finally, while not a perfect pairing on the palate, beef empanadas and Malbec are never a bad idea.

About Trumpeter:

Trumeter is the second label of Felipe Rutini.  The Rutini family winemaking heritage began in the early 19th century in Le Marche, Italy where Francisco Rutini started making wine.  His son, Felipe, immigrated to the Americas and it was in the province of Mendoza that he planted his first vines.  In 1885 he began construction of a winery which he named La Rural.  Felipe died in 1919, but the winery stayed in the Rutini family’s hands until 1994 when it was acquired by a group of investors, whose key members included famous Argentine winemaker Nicolas Catena. 

About Mendoza and Tupungato:

Named after one of Mendoza’s mountain peaks, the Tupungato Valley was no more than a stop-over on the road to the mountains when the Rutini family began planting vines there in 1925.  Located at the foothills of the Andes at an elevation of 3,000-5,000 feet about sea level, the valley offers many microclimates.  At the lower elevations Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec thrive while the higher altitudes produce what are considered to be Argentina’s finest Merlot and Chardonnay grapes.

The Mendoza Province accounts for two-thirds of Argentina’s wine production.  It has a continental climate and has semi-arid desert conditions, not unlike those of the wine country in eastern Washington State.  As rainfall is scarce, irrigation is the primary means for farmers to irrigate their vines, but this gives grape growers much more control over the final product providing great consistency from year to year.  When asked about great Mendoza vintages, an Argentine winemaker replied, “This is Mendoza.  Every year is a great vintage.”  The only real weather concern in Mendoza is the regular hail storms that occur in the summertime.   

About the Winemaker:

Winemaking at Rutini Wines is lead by Mariano Di Paola who joined the winery in 1995.  His path into the wine business began in 1976 when he took a job at a winery in between his high school graduation and the beginning of his military service.  His first notable job was working with Nicolas Catena at Bodega Esmeralda in 1989 as the assistant winemaker.  In 1992 he became the head winemaker at Bodega La Antonia before moving over to Rutini. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

Aromas of cinnamon and berries lead into flavors of cherry, blackberry and plum intermingled with hints of cardamom and pepper.  A rich, creamy wine with intense tannins, a touch of vanilla toast and a long, full finish.

 

Napanook 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $47
Second Label of Dominus Estate
Retail Price of Dominus: $130

Varietal: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot.

Fruit Source: 100% Napanook Vineyard
Cooperage: 15 months in oak (20% new)
Alcohol: 14.1%

Tasting Notes:


Even though a lot of people might cringe at a $47 second label wine, let me be the first to say that the 2007 Napanook is worth every penny.  Consider it a special occasion wine, but just be sure to consider it.  From Christian Moueix of Chateau Petrus fame in Bordeaux, this single-vineyard wine is bursting with freshness.  The nose is heavenly with aromas of cherries, strawberries and blackberries that are still on the vine.  There are also undertones of vanilla bean, caramel and liquorish.  The taste is equally as impressive with more of the rich, concentrated vine-ripened qualities that make the wine seem incredibly alive.  It’s got big, ripe tannins and needs at least an hour to decant, but it really shows what is possible with California Cabernet when it’s not manhandled in the winery.

Thanks to one of our Twitter followers, James Gordon of Wheaton, Illinois, for recommending this wine to us.  It’s an excellent addition to the Second Label Wine library.  You can find the 2007 Napanook online through our Wine Shop. 

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The Napanook is a very versatile wine that would go with a wide range of meats, but don’t complicate the seasoning.  Just use salt and pepper, as any rubs or marinades run the risk of overpowering the wine.  I could see this being a perfect pairing with short ribs braised in red wine.  Also a rib eye steak cooked medium rare would be a great accompaniment.  Even leaner meats would work well because of the wine’s balanced tannins.  I would caution against excessive use of smoke as it will detract, but browning with a sear or crust would be just right.


About Napanook and Christian Moueix:

Napanook is the second label of Christian Moueix’s Dominus Estate in Napa Valley.  He first released Napanook in 1996 with the intention of producing a wine to be enjoyed in its younger years. Napanook is a blend of the Bordeaux varietals coming from vineyard lots chosen for their finesse, lively fruit and subtle tannins.


Napanook is on the west side of the Napa Valley facing the town of Yountville, approximately one-third of the way up the valley. At the foot of the Mayacamas Mountains, it is located between the valley floor and the hillside.  Historical records show that in 1836 George Yount, who gave his name to Yountville, planted the first vines of the valley on the location of Napanook vineyard, before selling the land in 1850 to Charles Hopper.  Since then, Napanook has had several owners, including Hugh La Rue, one of the pioneers in the use of rootstock and John Daniel, famous for the Inglenook Cask Selection.

Christian Moueix fell in love with the valley and its wines while studying at U.C. Davis in 1968 and 1969. After many years of searching for the ideal vineyard location, in 1982 he entered into a joint venture with Robin Lail and Marcia Smith, John Daniel's two daughters.  This was the birth of Dominus, and its first vintage was harvested in 1983.

Moueix began his career in Pomerol, and is best known as the man behind Chateau Petrus, where merlot is the dominant varietal grown. At Dominus Estate, the essential grape varietal is cabernet sauvignon, the best suited for the Napanook vineyard terroir. Cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot are also used in the final blends, reinforcing the consistent style of the wines although varying during the blend each year to reflect the climate during the growing season.

About Napa Valley:

The first commercial vineyard was established in Napa Valley in 1858, but due to the outbreak of phylloxera, the institution of Prohibition and the Great Depression, wine making in Napa didn’t really take off until the 1970’s.  In fact, it was the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 (see Chad’s Recommending Wine Reading List at the top of the page) that really catapulted Napa Valley onto the world stage when a Napa Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon bested numerous famous French labels in a blind tasting. 

Napa Valley is flanked by the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and north and the Vaca Mountains to the east.  The soil contains large amounts of volcanic lava and ash.  There are over 450 wineries in the Napa AVA today and an acre of prime vineyard land goes for more than $200,000, up from only $5,000 in 1970.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Napanook is made solely from grapes grown at the historic Napanook Vineyard in Yountville, Napa Valley. The wine is blended from blocks in the vineyard that were carefully selected for their lively fruit, soft tannins and early maturing characteristics.


The 2007 vintage is vibrant and rich, filled with fresh cranberry, incense and floral aromas, round tannins and exceptional energy. Creamy on the palate, the wine is pure, precise and powerful. This vintage is one of the finest produced to date.

This wine is created to be consumed young, and enjoyed with food, but will also age well for more than a decade. Christian Moueix recommends decanting young wines before serving to allow them to reach their full potential.

Harvest Notes:

The 2007 vintage began dry with some very cold days and single-digit nighttime temperatures in early January, and continued dry, with about 60% of normal precipitation through the spring. Temperatures were warmer than normal in April and May with resulting earlier budding, bloom and set. The summer growing season continued on the mild to cool side. There was a brief period of heat that spiked to 103°F on August 29th, but the temperatures cooled after several days. Clusters, as well as individual berries on the clusters were notably small and nicely concentrated in all varieties due to the dry season.

 

Chateau Haut Bages Averous 2004

Picture
Retail Price: $28
Second Label of Chateau Lynch-Bages

Retail Price of Chateau Lynch-Bages: $105

Varietal: 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot

Cooperage: 12 months in French oak
Alcohol: 12.5%

Tasting Notes:

This is a well made wine that properly balances all of the components in the flavor profile.  It has that lovely Bordeaux dustiness on the nose, along with some tobacco and caramel.  The fruit is definitely there, but it’s in the background with notes of black currant and black cherries.  It’s a medium bodied wine with mellow tannins and just the right amount of acidity.  So far this is the closest a second label Bordeaux we’ve reviewed has come to its big brother.  I highly recommend this wine for anyone wanting to sample a well made Bordeaux without breaking the bank.

The 2004 Chateau Haut-Bages Averous can be found online at Specsonline.com.  In the Austin area, look for it at Specs but you can also order it through their website and have it delivered to your door.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I’d like to pair this Bordeaux with some fattier meats like a rib-eye or a t-bone as long as you don’t trim the fat off.  Don’t complicate the food with this wine.  It should be well seasoned, but just simple salt and pepper will do.  It’s a meat and potatoes kind of wine.

About Chateau Haut-Bages Averous:

Château Haut-Bages Averous is the name of a former Pauillac property, once purchased by André Cazes. This name has long designated the second wine of Château Lynch-Bages, the result of a determined selection for the first time during the harvest of 1976 and continued every year since then.  As of the 2008 vintage, Château Haut-Bages Averous changed its name. To better assert its lineage with the estate, it became “Echo de Lynch-Bages”.

Greek mythology tells us that Zeus, when he wanted to dally with some pretty mortal girl, would entrust Echo with the task of diverting his wife Hera’s attention with idle chatter. Discovering the secret game, Hera punished Echo by condemning her to never again be the first to speak and to ceaselessly repeat the last words she would hear.

Developed as an echo of the first label and enjoying the same attentive care from the vine to the storehouse, "Echo de Lynch-Bages” has the flavor, aroma and finish characteristic of the wines of Pauillac.  Representing 25% to 40% of the harvest depending on the vintages, “Echo” is chiefly made from the property’s youngest vines. Its final blend often differs from that of Lynch-Bages by a slightly higher proportion of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

About Chateau Lynch-Bages and Pauillac:

Located in the heart of the Médoc in the northwest of Bordeaux, the Pauillac Appellation covers some 1,200 hectares located directly on the outskirts of the town of the same name, along the estuary of the Gironde River.  It contains three of the four First Growth chateau in Bordeaux.  Consisting of large ridges of very pure gravel, the town is bisected from east to west at its centre, by the Pibran marsh and the Gaët channel, which flows into the Gironde. On either side of this drainage area are two large plateaus with vineyards to the north (Lafite, Mouton-Rothschild, Pontet-Canet etc.) and to the south (Latour, the two Pichon vineyards, Lynch-Bages etc.).  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot are the grape varieties of Pauillac.

The Lynch-Bages Estate owes part of its name to the ancient hamlet of Bages, which for centuries was home to generations of winemakers.  Its great wine history began in the eighteenth century when, in 1728, it became the property of Chevalier Pierre Drouillard, Treasurer General of Guyenne, who purchased it from Bernard Déjean. Upon his death in 1749, Pierre Drouillard bequeathed the estate to his daughter, Elizabeth, who was then the wife of Thomas Lynch. The property thus passed into the Lynch family for seventy-five years.  Then known as the “Cru de Lynch”, the property was sold in 1824 to Sébastien Jurine, a wine merchant from Geneva who had newly moved in Bordeaux. Under the stewardship of his young son, André-Louis, it was classified among the Fifth Growths in the prestigious 1855 Classification.

The vineyards of Lynch-Bages sits among favorably designed hillcrests located south and southwest of the city. This particular topography allows for both a natural drainage of soils to the river and, with help of the water table in shallow areas, a fine feeding of water for the vines.  From a geological point of view, the soils of Lynch-Bages are homogeneous, consisting mainly of Garonne gravel from the slow erosion of the Pyrenees Mountains. Highly filtered and loam poor, these gravely and sandy soils collect heat during the day to better release it during the night. Poor and scantly fertile, they allow a moderate growth of the vine and promote the subtlety of the fruit. Well drained, this promotes a deep root: the slight clay content in the subsoil brings freshness and allows regular mineral nutrition to the vine.


 

Wallace Brook Cellars Pinot Noir 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $18                  
Second Label of Adelsheim                  
Retail Price of Adelsheim: $30


Varietal Content: 100% Pinot Noir
Total Production: 5,050 cases
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:

The Wallace Brook Pinot Noir was a surprising treat at a Second Label Wine dinner party earlier this year.  It’s a very light bodied Pinot that is bursting with fresh cherries and figs as well as light plums, raspberries, clove and rose petal.  The mild tannins make it an extremely versatile wine and for under $20, I find it to be an exceptional value.  For a grape that can be fickle and a wine style that is prone to inconsistency in other parts of the world, I never cease to be impressed with the quality and reliability of the Pinot Noir coming out of Oregon.

You can find the 2009 Wallace Brook Pinot Noir online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

There are a lot of different dishes that would go with this Pinot Noir, including the usual suspects of duck, chicken or salmon.  At our dinner party, however, I chose a dish of fresh Atlantic Cod on a Bacalao brandade with garlic chips, pickled eggs mimosa and fried parsley.  Normally the dish would call for a rose wine, but this Wallace Brook Pinot was so light bodied that we thought it was worth a try.  The results were magical – a truly perfect combination and another reason why sometimes it’s a good idea to take chances with your pairings.  Yes, it could blow up in your face, but when all the stars align, you’ll see fireworks.  Click here to see photos of each course from the dinner party and thanks again to Kelly for being such a gracious hostess.

About Wallace Brook Cellars:

Wallace Brook Cellars is the second label of Adelsheim Vineyards and has been produced on and off since the late 1980’s.  Located in Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley, the winery was founded in 1971 by David and Ginny Adelsheim.  Their first wine for commercial release was bottled in 1978.  From an original vineyard of only 15 acres, Adelsheim has grown to include 11 vineyards totally 190 acres under vine producing award winning Pinot Noir as well as a variety of white wines including Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Auxerrois.

About the Willamette Valley:

The Willamette Valley in western Oregon is 150 miles long and 60 miles wide.  It is bordered on the north by the Columbia River, to the south by the Calapooya Mountain Range, to the east by the Cascades and to the west by Oregon’s Coast Range.  Most of the vines in the valley are planted on the hillsides on the west side.

Although it has a relatively mild climate, there is considerable moisture in the Willamette Valley.  Fortunately most of the rain falls during the winter and not during growing season.  The climate along with gravel, silt and rock soil on top of a volcanic seabed provide ideal conditions for cool weather grapes like Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.  In fact, many believe the valley produces some of the world’s finest Pinot Noir, but most did not take notice until Robert Drouhin, of the famed Joseph Drouhin wines in Burgundy, started planting vineyards here in 1988.  He declared there were only two places in the world he would grow Pinot Noir – Burgundy and Oregon.

As a region, Oregon is the only place in the new world to exclusively use French oak barrels in the aging process, and they have embraced with open arms many of the traditional old world techniques for vineyard management and winemaking.

About the Winemaker:

Dave Paige joined Adelsheim Vineyard as Winemaker in 2001. He developed his interest in wine while working at a wine shop in Ohio.  This experience prompted his move to California to enroll in the Viticulture and Enology program at U.C. Davis, where he earned his Fermentation Science degree in 1989. Dave’s diverse experience has included time at wineries in the Sierra Nevada foothills, the Napa Valley, Australia, and Monterey County.

Vineyards:

The vineyards contributing to this Willamette Valley Pinot noir are on two distinct soil types.  The sites on basaltic origin, clay-loam soils retain some moisture through our summer droughts, ensuring the development of intense fruit flavors. The warmer, earlier-ripening sites on sedimentary, silt-loam soils produce grapes with great structure and black fruit character.  All of the vineyards are located in the northern Willamette Valley.

Harvest Notes:

The 2009 growing season began with three months of above average temperatures  coupled with lower than average rainfall.  Bud break occurred around April 20th, giving the 2009 season a one week head start compared to 2008.  Rainfall increased throughout the pre-bloom period, and temperatures remained higher, resulting in gorgeous bloom conditions and bountiful fruit set.  Temperatures spiked into the triple digits in July, but cooled to normal levels for August as we eased into veraison.  Sugar accumulation was accelerated at lower elevations leading to a mid-September pick, which we had not seen since the 2006 harvest.  Lack of rain around our picking schedule meant grapes could hang until they reached optimal ripeness. All of our Estate fruit was in the winery by the second week of October.

Winemaking Process: 

After hand-harvesting, the grapes were gently destemmed into open top fermenters, followed by a four to six day cold soak for greater flavor and color extraction.  The grapes were then inoculated with a commercial yeast and punched down two to three times per day during their 7 day fermentation.  After pressing, the wine was transferred into traditional small French oak barrels.  This wine was bottled on August 23, 2010.

 

Shooting Star Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $12                   
Second Label of Steele Cuvee                  
Retail Price of Steele Cuvee: $20


Varietal Content: Chardonnay & Pinot Blanc
Grapes Source: Santa Barbara Co.
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:

Although it is sourced from grapes in Santa Barbara County, the Shooting Star Chardonnay is produced in Jed Steele’s Lake County winery.  This is an incredibly refreshing wine and an absolute steal at $12.

The nose is a tropical fruit salad with the primary component being fresh pineapple.  There is also plenty of crisp tree fruit present, as well as some floral notes and the distinct smell of butter.  The oak in this wine is well integrated and not overdone like so many other California Chardonnays.  This is not a complex wine, but it is well made, well balanced and a lot of fun.

You can find the 2007 Shooting Star Chardonnay through various sources at Wine-Searcher.com.  The first label Steele Cuvee Chardonnay, also a fantastic deal at $20, is available online at Wine.com.  In the Austin area, you can pick them both up at Specs. 

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The Shooting Star Chardonnay is one of the more versatile wines we’ve reviewed here.  It could literally be paired with just about any fish or seafood meal.  It’s big enough to stand up to strong fish like salmon, but it would also work wonderfully with more delicate, light white fish.  Moreover just about any preparation would be appropriate from baked to fried to sautéed to broiled.  It might also work with chicken or pork, assuming more simple preparations or in dishes with light cream or butter sauces.

About Shooting Star:

Shooting Star is the second label of Steele Wines although it is generally produced using fruit from the same vineyards.  While Steele label wines are single vineyard or aged in oak for a longer period, the Shooting Star wines are more appellation blends and also feature some lesser known varietals such as Aligote and Lemberger.  They also tend to be lighter, “more everyday drinking” types of wines compared to the first label.

Steele Wines takes a hands-off approach to wine making that emphasizes natural fermentations with no additives or enzymes.  They also use gravity flow and gentle pumping in the winery to maintain the fresh aromas and flavors.

About Lake County:

Lake County lies directly north of Napa and is the place where the Mayacamas and Vaca ranges that flank the Napa Valley join together and rise to higher altitudes.  Its dominant feature is Clear Lake, the largest natural lake in California, along with Mt. Konocti, an extinct volcano on the shores of the lake.  The vineyards in the county are planted at altitudes ranging from 1,400 to 3,000 feet above sea level.  This altitude produces very strong wines because of the thicker skins the grapes grow to protect their seeds due to the increased ultraviolet light.  The soils in the appellation include volcanic, sandstone, shale and alluvial.

Lake County is one of the lesser known winemaking regions in northern California.  With only 25 wineries and 8,000 acres under vine, it is fairly rural compared to its more famous neighbors.  In fact, it was actually part of Napa County until 1896.  The county is also is home to the purest air quality in all of California.

About the Winemaker:

A 41-year veteran California wine maker, Jed Steele began his career in the cellar of Stony Hill in Napa Valley.  He holds a master’s degree in enology from U.C. Davis and he helped start the Kendall-Jackson Empire, working there for their first nine vintages.  In 1991, Jed began Steele Wines and has managed to produce wines sourced from grapes in most of California’s top wine regions. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

The style of the wine is different from previous bottlings as we were able to ferment all of the wine in oak barrels. Most of the new barrels went into the Steele Cuvée and single vineyard Goodchild bottling. The remaining barrels were typically four to five years old with a few new barrels used for flavor and aroma. The wine is still lighter and crisper than the typical Steele Chardonnay bottling and there is the very recognizable Santa Barbara character of tropical fruits such as pineapple, papaya and mango. We continued the trend of including some Pinot Blanc as part of the blend and this year both Bien Nacido and Goodchild vineyards produced Pinot Blanc. The Pinot Blanc gives the wine a crisp character and lends some juicy fruit aromas.

Notes on the vineyards:

The area around the Santa Ynez Valley near Santa Barbara has a maritime climate with lots of morning fog in the summer and cool evenings. We get grapes from Bien Nacido whose vineyards are on benches above the Sisquoc River and from the Goodchild Vineyard, which lies across the river. Both of these vineyards add a tropical fruit aroma, with flavors that are reminiscent of mango and papaya.

 

Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo Langhe 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $23
Second Label of Produttori Barbaresco
Retail Price of Barbaresco: $35

Varietal Content: 100% Nebbiolo
Cooperage: 6 months in large Slavonian oak casks
Alcohol: 14%

Tasting Notes:

I’m really exciting to present this wine for three reasons.  First, I think that too few people in the U.S. have experienced the wonders of the Nebbiolo grape of Piedmont in northwest Italy.  Second, I think that Produttori del Barbaresco is an incredibly unique and inspiring producer in a wine world that is becoming increasingly dominated by corporate giants.  And third, it’s a damn good bottle of wine.

This Produttori is a perfect introduction to Nebbiolo as it is very approachable and not overly tannic at a young age.  There is ample dark fruit and spice on the nose as well as chocolate and earthy qualities like mushrooms.  This is a nice medium bodied wine with a medium to long finish.  It is incredibly refined for the price; an amazing value.

You can find the 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo Langhe online through various sources at Snooth.com.  In the Austin area, look for it at either of the two Twin Liquors Marketplace locations. 


Food Pairing Suggestions:

With an earthy wine like this Nebbiolo, my mind keeps wandering to dishes that feature mushrooms.  My first thought is beef stroganoff with an extra helping of mushrooms added to the mix.  Also tortellini or polenta with a porcini mushroom sauce would be fantastic.  Alternately consider pairing this wine with game dishes like a penne with wild boar.

About Nebbiolo Langhe:

This wine is produced every year by the Produttori del Barbaresco; it ranges from 10 to 30% of the total production depending on the quality of the vintage (the better the vintage is the less is produced). It is a second label for the Barbaresco and it is made with the grapes from young vines or those vineyards that produced a less intense and concentrated juice. It still has the quality necessary to be classified as a Barbaresco, but the winery declassifies it in order to sell it at a younger age and maintain the Barbaresco quality as high as possible.

About Produttori del Barbaresco:

The Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative was founded in 1958 when the village priest organized 19 small growers.  The first three vintages were made in the church basement, and then in the winery built across the square where it is still located.  Today it has 56 members and 250 acres of Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation; however each family is in full control of its portion of the land.

The winery produces a Barbaresco D.O.C.G., a blend of Nebbiolo grapes harvested from different vineyards, and the simpler Nebbiolo Langhe suited for earlier consumption.  In great vintages, nine single-vineyard Barbarescos are produced with the name of the owners of the vineyards marked on the labels.

About Barbaresco:

The Barbaresco appellation is located in the northwestern part of Italy in the Piedmont district.  It is tiny and includes only 1,250 acres of vines in the villages of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso.  Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera grapes are grown in the region, however it is Nebbiolo, which is the local word for “fog eater,” that is the star of the show.  Cultivated since the 13th century in this region, it is a late maturing grape and is very sensitive to different soils and climate.

The continental weather of Barbaresco provides hot summers, moderately warm springs and falls, and cold and snowy winters.  The grapes are grown in clay soil, rich in limestone, at an altitude of 650-1,300 feet on very steep, "pre-alpine" hills.

Harvest Notes:

A classic winter, three snowstorms, and lots of snow up on the nearby Alps, followed by a rainy spring with April temperatures way below average, a warm May and a pretty cold and wet first half of June.  The beginning of summer brought much warmer, although wet, weather which remained all through July.  Average summer temperatures in August and September but very dry, a bad sign for truffle season, but a very good one for the "vendemmia" (harvest).  The Nebbiolo harvest started at the Produttori on October 4th, later than recent vintages, but in line with classic years such as 2004, 1999, and so on. The climate was ideal and the harvest lasted for a full two weeks.  The sugar level in the Nebbiolo grapes is not as high as the previous vintage in 2007, but the tannins are powerful and complex, the fruit intense, and the acidity not shy… a great vintage for Nebbiolo lovers!

 

Knights Valley Pinot Noir 2006

Picture
Retail Price: $37
Second Label of Peter Michael Le Moulin Rouge
Retail Price of Peter Michael: $140


Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Fruit Source: Pisoni Vineyard, Monterey County

Pinot Noir Clone: 100% Vosne-Romanee
Alcohol: 14.8%

Tasting Notes:

Even though this Knights Valley Pinot Noir checks in at $37, it is a steal and one of the best value wines we’ve reviewed yet.  All of the grapes come from the same world class vineyard in Monterey County as the first label and the wine is crafted at the same renowned winery in Sonoma County as the first label.


This wine is brimming with life.  On the nose are tons of bright berries like raspberries and strawberries, but they are complimented nicely by an earthy aroma of moist, freshly tilled soil.  The oak is also well integrated with caramel and toast notes.  This is a beautiful Pinot Noir and the epitome of finesse and balance.  No need to decant.  Just open it and enjoy.

The 2006 Knights Valley Pinot Noir can be found online or in person at Specs.  You can also track it down online through various outlets on Wine-Searcher.com.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Oh my!  A sip of this Knights Valley has got me hot and bothered.  What a firecracker.  I hate to be so obvious, but this really calls for duck, preferably a seared breast or confit.  Other dark poultry would work fine as well.  It would also be heavenly with fresh or smoked salmon.  In fact, we drank it alongside a pasta dish with a tomato, salmon and cream sauce.  I think any sort of classic French bistro food would also do the trick like steak frites, cassoulet or duck confit as I mentioned above.   


About Knights Valley:

Knights Valley Pinot Noir is the little known second label of Peter Michael’s Le Moulin Rouge Pinot Noir.  Before getting into the wine business, Michael was knighted by Queen Elizabeth in 1989 for creating the first digital devices for drawing television graphics by computer among other things.  The Quantel Paintbox was just one of several commercial applications his company introduced in its 20 years of operation.

Michael and his wife purchased 630 acres in Knights Valley in 1982 to begin a wine estate.  All Peter Michael wines are made using a non-interventionist approach. With few exceptions, the wines are not fined or filtered. Traditional winemaking techniques such as French oak aging, a weekly “bâtonnage” (stirring while in barrel) and native fermentations are supplemented by new traditions like the hand sorting system designed to ensure that only perfect berries make it into the wine press.  Throughout its history, the winery has continued to reflect Michael’s credo of “mountain vineyards, classical winemaking, limited production.”

About Monterey County and Pisoni Vineyard:

The 40,000 acres, 175 vineyards and 85 wineries of Monterey County mostly stretch along a 90-mile long valley and encompass nine different appellations.  The region’s proximity to the Pacific where ocean depths reach more than two miles just offshore have a tremendous impact on the local viticulture.  The summertime diurnal temperature variation is huge with 40 or 50 degree swings from daytime highs to nighttime lows.  This allows the grapes to ripen with high sugar content, but the drop in temperature preserves the natural acids as well.


The Pisoni family’s property in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County is one of the most celebrated Pinot Noir vineyards in California. Perched above the Salinas Valley at an altitude of 1,300 feet, Pisoni is set on undulating east-facing slopes with sandy, decomposed granite soils and a cool maritime-influenced climate.

About the Winemaker:

Wine has always been a way of life for Nicolas Morlet, as it is for his brother and predecessor at Peter Michael, Luc Morlet: both grew up working on the family domaine in Champagne. Born in Epernay, France to a fifth generation wine-grower family, Nick and his brothers grew up spending all their free time from school working on the family estate. At 40 acres, it was small enough to be managed by the family alone most of the year, but large enough to require the efforts of all its members.

Following his degree in Viticulture, Enology and Wine Business, Nick worked, as Luc did two years earlier, at Maison Chanson Père & Fils producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Then, while working at Chateau Lascombes, Nick researched the advantages of macerating Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot in small oak barrels. His thesis on “vinification intégrale” won him honors when he received his Bachelor of Science in Enology from the prestigious University of Dijon in Burgundy. Nick’s first trip to California was in 1994, when he combined agricultural work with two months of traveling to national parks and mountains. After a stint at Joseph Phelps Vineyards for the Insignia and Backus labels, working with winemaker Craig Williams, Nick joined Peter Michael Winery in the winter of 2005.

Harvest Notes:

In the Santa Lucia Highlands the spring was dry and breezy. Bud break hinted at an unexpected generous harvest. The blooming period extended through June with some shatter which reduced the crop to more typical levels. During the ripening process we saw plentiful sun with some hot temperatures, but no aggressive heat spikes. Judicious thinning reduced the crop to insure maximum quality. The weather remained ideal until the very end of harvest, and the fruit showed great flavors of delicate forest fruits with ripe tannin development. We were able to pick calmly at the peak of ripeness.


 

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Prologue 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $24
Second Label of Anderson’s Conn Valley Cabernet Reserve
Retail Price of Cabernet Reserve: $60

Varietal: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc
Fruit Source: 100% North Coast

Alcohol: 14.4%

Tasting Notes:


This Prologue is a fantastic bottle of wine from one of Napa Valley’s top producers.  The first thing that jumps out of the glass is vanilla along with raspberries and dark fruit.  The fruit is incredibly concentrated.  There is also an aroma of fermented, but not dried, tobacco.  As David, a wine expert who attended a recent Second Label Wine tasting said, this would be a great bridge wine when trying to get Merlot drinkers to experiment with Cabernet.  It is fruit forward with a good amount of residual sugar and very mild tannins.  Overall this is a really well made, balanced wine.  It does have a decent amount of sediment, however, so try to decant it after opening.

You can find the 2008 Conn Valley Prologue online through various sources at Snooth.com.  In the Austin area, it’s also available at Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is a versatile wine that would go nicely with most meats.  I think it would be particularly lovely with grilled lamb, but you could also serve it with a fillet topped with blue cheese.  Also because the wine has a touch of sweetness it would work with a good old fashioned American hamburger or a three meat pizza.


About Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards:

Anderson’s Conn Valley Prologue is the second label of their Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.  The property is managed and operated by Todd Anderson.  Since 1984, when he began staking-out the vineyard's trellis system with his father, Gus Anderson, Todd has been involved with every phase of planting, growing, harvesting and crushing their estate grown grapes as well as vinification.


The vineyards are in the heart of the Napa Valley just five minutes east of St. Helena and are located where Conn Creek flows out of Howell Mountain. The property is separated from the Napa Valley floor by a ridge running north and south.  The soils are deeply gravelly clay loam of the Bale Loam series -- the same soil found in the Rutherford Bench.

The vineyards are non-irrigated, a practice that drives the roots of the vines deep into the soil in search of moisture and nutrients. This develops deeper more complex flavors due to the greater proportion of skin to juice contact that occurs with small berries.

About Napa Valley:

The first commercial vineyard was established in Napa Valley in 1858, but due to the outbreak of phylloxera, the institution of Prohibition and the Great Depression, wine making in Napa didn’t really take off until the 1970’s.  In fact, it was the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 (see Chad’s Recommending Wine Reading List at the top of the page) that really catapulted Napa Valley onto the world stage when a Napa Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon bested numerous famous French labels in a blind tasting. 

Napa Valley is flanked by the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and north and the Vaca Mountains to the east.  The soil contains large amounts of volcanic lava and ash.  There are over 450 wineries in the Napa AVA today and an acre of prime vineyard land goes for more than $200,000, up from only $5,000 in 1970.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Color: Dark ruby with slight purple around edges.
Aroma: Ripe blackberries, roasted herbs, cedar, violets, honeysuckle and black currents.
Taste: Full bodied, short tannins that give this wine whole full mouth richness and a great texture. The fruit, oak and acid balance is showing very well. Spice, coffee, vanilla and black fruit.

Harvest Notes:

2008 began with intense storms that brought high winds and heavy rains to the region, but that soon waned and the North Coast experienced a dry spring. The drier soils prompted vines to push out early, providing the “perfect storm” for frigid, dry air to create conditions for the deepest and longest frost period in decades. As spring progressed there was cooling and rain at bloom, a relatively cool summer delayed verasion, requiring careful crop thinning then a big hot spell came along in early September. The heat spell ratcheted everyone into high gear as several varieties were coming into ripeness all at once. The red varieties however benefited from long hang times in warm weather providing excellent ripening and a balanced structure.

 

Brampton Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $11                  
Second Label of Rustenberg                   
Retail Price of Rustenberg: $14


Varietal Content: 88% Sauvignon Blanc, 11.5% Semillon, .5% Grenache Blanc
Fermentation: Stainless steel temperature controlled tanks
Aging: 3 months on the lees
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:

Slowly but surely, South Africa is taking its rightful place as a high-quality wine producing region, but for the moment a lot of great values can still be found there.  The Brampton Sauvignon Blanc is a refreshing, high-acid wine with a pleasant tartness.  On the nose the primary profile is lemon and lime along with fresh cut grass and herbs.  The citrus continues on the palette with the addition of tropical notes of pineapple and passion fruit.  In terms of value for the dollar, I like the Brampton, but for only $3 more the Rustenberg first label is also a bargain.  You won’t go wrong with either bottle.  You can find the 2009 Brampton Sauvignon Blanc in our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is a lovely, yet fairly simple, Sauvignon Blanc so I would serve it with simple fare.  My favorite dish with this wine would be a composed salad with a vinaigrette-based dressing topped with goat cheese (maybe even fried goat cheese if you want to be a bit more ambitious).  I might also pair it with Thai food or other Southeast Asian cuisine.  Finally Sauvignon Blanc is one of the few wines that pairs well with asparagus, so I’d like to see this wine with a plate of roasted asparagus with a poached egg on top.

About Brampton:

Brampton is the second label of Rustenberg in the Western Cape of South Africa.  It has a wine-growing history dating back to 1682, when Roelof Pasman from Meurs, near the Rhine River, recognized its wine-growing potential. By 1781 some 3,000 cases of wine were produced on the farm. Production doubled by the end of the century and a new cellar was built. Wine has been bottled at this cellar for an unbroken period since 1892.  In 1941, Peter and Pamela Barlow bought Rustenberg. Their son Simon took over the running of the farm in 1987. The Barlows have been at Rustenberg for over 60 years: the longest period any one family has owned the farm.

The Vineyards producing the grapes for Rustenberg wines climb the rich red slopes of Simonsberg and Helderberg. The style of wine determines the vineyard to be used.  Controlled irrigation is used when necessary to alleviate stressed vines and maximize the quality of the grapes. All grapes are hand-harvested in the early mornings and all vineyard blocks vinified separately, then blended for added complexity.

The name Brampton pays tribute to champion Jersey bull Brampton Beacon Bloomer, who was imported from Canada by Peter and Pam Barlow to add vitality to the farm's prize-winning Jersey herd.

About Stellenbosch:

Stellenbosch is located in the Western Cape province of South Africa just east of Cape Town, and it is the primary location for winemaking and wine research in the country.  It is known for producing high quality Pinotage and Chenin Blanc (locally known as Steen) wines.  The region has a Mediterranean climate with hot dry summers and cool wet winters.  As Stellenbosch lies at the foot of the Cape Fold Mountains, the soil ranges from light and sandy to decomposed granite, ideal for growing quality wine grapes.  Stellenbosch University is also one of the world’s leading institutions in the study of wine. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

This zesty Sauvignon bargain from the heralded Rustenberg estate displays bright, refreshing citrus and tropical fruit flavors with hallmark grassy notes and a tangy mineral finish. It is a mouthwatering match for grilled vegetables, salads, roast chicken, and mild white fish.

 

Pegovino Vin de Pays d'Oc 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $12
Second Label of Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Retail Price of Chateauneuf-du-Pape: $90


Varietal: 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:

Although the Vin de Pays d’Oc borders the Rhone Valley appellation, the grapes for this Pegovino do not come from the Rhone Valley itself.  However the wine is produced at Domaine du Pegau by the renowned winemaker Laurence Féraud and her father, Paul.  That is why I’ve decided to categorize it as a second label.

Unfortunately this Pegovino does not do justice to Féraud’s abilities.  It is a one-note wine with fresh cherries being the only real aroma coming out of the glass.  Worst still, the Grenache simply overpowers the Syrah in the blend so none of the pepper and spice characteristics of Syrah come through.  There is some grape tannin, but very little oak.  While this is a drinkable wine, it’s wildly out of balance and, for the same price, a far cry from the Perrin & Fils Cotes-du-Rhone Villages that we reviewed back in February.

The 2007 Pegovino Vin de Pays d’Oc can be found online or in person at Specs, and the 2009 Perrin & Fils Cotes du Rhone Villages can be found online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This Pegovino is not very complex, so I would suggest pairing it with simple foods.  I think it would be a lovely wine to serve at a backyard BBQ with beef brisket, pinto beans and potato salad.  I think it could also work nicely with slow braised meats.  In fact, I might even suggest using this wine to braise the meat and then have another bottle on hand to drink with the finished product.

About Pegovino Vin de Pays d’Oc:

Vin de pays is a French term meaning “country wine.”  It is a step above table wine in the French wine classification, but a step below the AOC classifications (Rhone, Bordeaux, Champagne, etc.).  Legislation on Vin de pays was created in 1973 which allowed producers to distinguish wines that were made using grape varieties or procedures other than those required by the AOC rules without having to use the term “table wine.”  Unlike table wines which are only indicated as being from France, Vin de pays also carry a geographic designation of origin, the producers have to submit the wine for analysis and tasting and the wines have to be made from certain grape varietals or blends.

There are six regional Vin de pays which cover large areas of France.  The largest is Vin de Pays d’Oc from the Languedoc-Roussillon area along the Mediterranean coast.  The Languedoc is also the largest wine making region in the world, accounting for over 1/3 of the wine produced in France each year.

About Domaine du Pegau:

Ancestors of father and daughter team Paul and Laurence Féraud farmed olives, cherries and grapes in Châteauneuf-du-Pape dating back to the 17th century.  The methods established centuries ago carry on in the current vintages, creating robust, concentrated, traditional red and white wines.  For many years the winery was known as Domaine Féraud Fils and they made traditional Chateauneuf-du-Pape. In 1987 Domaine du Pegau was formed as we know it today.

The name Pegau, an old Provencal word for a wine jug found in the excavations of the 14th century Papal Palace in nearby Avignon, was created in 1987 when Laurence Féraud, after her wine studies, went home to help her father Paul Féraud at the domaine. Paul always talks about Laurence as "le chef,” but he is an experienced winemaker himself.  Today father and daughter have made Pegau to one of the best wines in Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  They have 42 acres planted with red varieties and 2 ½ acres planted with white grapes.  The 11 parcels are spread around the appellation and gives different wines, which after the blending result in a very distinct wine.

About the Winemaker:

Laurence Féraud is a former Wine Advocate Wine Personality of the Year.  “She is the most prominent female winemaker of the appellation.  It is rare in Chateauneuf-du-Pape to see a woman in charge of a famous estate.  This superb estate fashions an old style, massive, unbelievably rich, rustic Chateauneuf-du-Pape. If you want to taste what the old style Chateauneuf-du-Pape of the forties, fifties, and early sixties tasted like, buy a bottle of Domaine du Pegau.  They are rich, rustic, sometimes massive Chateauneuf-du-Papes made with no concession to modern-day tastes.”

 

Four Sisters Shiraz 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $11
Second Label of Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz
Retail Price of Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz: $17

Varietal: 94% Shiraz, 4% Viognier
Fruit Source: Central Victoria

Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:


Not exactly a second label, Four Sisters is a winery started by Trevor Mast, who was the owner and winemaker at Mount Langi Ghiran for almost 20 years.  This Shiraz is a simple, yet pleasant, wine that would be an excellent choice to take to a BBQ.  It’s a big jammy wine, almost Zinfandel like, with tons of stewed fruit on the nose as well as all-spice, clove, vanilla and mulling spices.  My biggest gripe is that it’s over-oaked, but otherwise I would have no problem putting a few glasses of this back at $11 a bottle.   

You can find the 2008 Four Sisters Shiraz online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is a straight up BBQ wine.  Any kind of grilled meat will do, but I’m especially partial to BBQ brisket - the good stuff with the fat, not the dried out lean junk that passes for brisket these days.  I’d also love to drink this wine with pulled pork or a juicy hamburger.  I agree with Chad that it is over-oaked, but the beauty of BBQ is that the char on the meat will help offset the oak and bring out more of the fruit.


About Four Sisters:

Four Sisters is a low-cost wine label started by legendary Australian winemaker Trevor Mast.  Mast and his wife, Sandra, bought the small winery of Mount Langi Ghiran in Victoria’s Grampians region in 1987, which is best known for its cool climate Shiraz.  In the mid-90s he launched the Four Sisters label, naming it after his four daughters with eldest daughter and artist, Daliah, designing the logo. 

Everything changed in March of 2006 when Mast was diagnosed with younger onset dementia. He was 57 years old.  When he was diagnosed, he immediately resigned as the Mount Langi Ghrian winemaker - the Masts had sold the winery a couple of years earlier but he had stayed on as chief winemaker - and they moved to Melbourne to be near family.  Today Mast needs help dressing, showering and shaving and his vocabulary has shrunk to about 20 words. 

The Mast family recently donated a significant amount of Trevor’s personal cellar to an auction with proceeds benefiting the Lovell Foundation, which helps people with younger onset dementia. It hopes to build a residential care facility in Victoria. At present, the only option is nursing homes.  For more information on the Lovell Foundation, visit http://www.lovellfoundation.com.au/. 

About Western Victoria and Grampians:

The geography of Western Victoria covers flat pastures and granite escarpment.  With low annual rainfall, the area relies heavily on irrigation.  Springtime frost is a significant viticulture hazard as is ripening during the cool summers.  Winters are normally cold and wet. 

Grampians, with its sub region Great Western, is generally a cooler climate red wine producing region.  The first vines were planted in 1862 on the Concongella Creek, followed closely by plantings in Great Western. By the 1880s the region was famous for its sparkling wines, but it was soon realized that the cool climate viticulture, influenced by the Grampians mountain range, could also produce wines of intense varietal definition.

Shiraz is the region’s signature variety, typically displaying dense purple color with attractive pepper spice and plum characters on the nose and palate. The region also produces crisp, delicious Riesling and flavorsome Chardonnay, alongside its famous sparkling wines produced in the traditional French styles. Pinot Gris, Cabernet, and Pinot Noir are also in abundance and showcase the region’s diversity of wine style.

About the Winemaking Process:

The grapes for this wine were picked and crushed in the cool of the night ensuring the retention of varietal character whilst modern winemaking techniques were employed through the entire process. Fermentation took place in sweeping arm red fermenters giving the wine a denser, richer color and allowing for gentle flavor extraction. The Viognier was co-fermented with the main portion of the Shiraz blend in an effort to lift the aromatics and add freshness to the style. The wine was then aged in a combination of French & American oak along with some portions kept in stainless steel tanks to ensure the fruit dominance of the style. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

Deep purple in color. The fragrant nose displays aromas of lifted perfume characters from the Viognier combined with subtle dark berry fruit and a hint of spice and pepper. The palate is elegant and finely balanced displaying dense berry fruit, overtones of spice and finishing with some fine powdery tannins.

Harvest Notes:

The growing season in 2008 started very well with a cool spring and good rains – vital during the growing season. Harvesting began a little earlier than usual, nevertheless small berry sizes and lighter bunch weights complemented by high sugar levels produced rich and intense flavors in the berries.

The fruit was sourced from four individual vineyard sites across the Central Victoria grape growing region. The average ages of the vines are 9 years. Soil types across each individual site vary from sandy loam soils with some clay content through to very sandy soils on the banks of the Goulburn River.


 

Les Chenes de Macquin 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $23
Second Label of Chateau Pavie-Macquin
Retail Price of Chateau Pavie-Macquin: $81


Varietal: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Cooperage: 12-16 months in French oak
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:

The 2007 Les Chenes de Macquin needs a few more years in the bottle.  This vintage is in its adolescence.  It’s too old to be a rambunctious child, but it’s not old enough to have developed any real complexity.  Overall though, it is a solid right bank Bordeaux primarily featuring Merlot.  The dark red wine has aromas of cocoa, black cherry, plum and green bell pepper.  It has a nice long finish and I think a few years down the line it will be very palate pleasing.

The 2007 Les Chenes de Macquin can be found online at Specsonline.com.  In the Austin area, look for it at Specs but you can also order it through their website and have it delivered to your door.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I think this Bordeaux is a finicky wine to pair due to its youth.  At the moment it’s not particularly versatile so I wouldn’t pair it with a broad range of foods.  It would be a natural with meat and potato dishes, like a classic fillet, New York strip or a sirloin.  I also think it would be lovely with escargot, and I know that it works wonders with dark chocolate because I tried it myself.  Go with 70% or greater dark chocolate.

About Les Chenes de Macquin:

A proper Bordeaux second label, Les Chenes de Macquin is the second wine of St. Emilion standout Cheateau Pavie Macquin.  Focusing primarily on Merlot grapes, this second label is made from young vines and aged in French oak and subject to the same selection controls as the first wine.  It is intended to be consumed sooner than Chateau Pavie Macquin, but it also has good aging potential.

About Chateau Pavie Macquin:

Château Pavie Macquin is one of three Pavie vineyards around St. Emilion, the others being Chateau Pavie and Chateau Pavie-Decesse.  At one time they were all owned by Ferdinand Bouffard, a well known negociant of the 19th century.  Chateau Pavie Macquin is named after the grandfather of the current owners, Albert Macquin (1852-1911), to whom St. Emilion owes a debt of gratitude for introducing plant grafting in response to the disastrous phylloxera epidemic.

The estate includes 37 acres situated on the summit of the St. Emilion plateau.  The clay and limestone soil lies on limestone bedrock which allows for good drainage.  The vines, with an average age of 35 years, are 80% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Harvesting is done completely by hand and the Chateau produces between 50,000 and 55,000 bottles of wine per vintage.

About the Winemaker:

Nicolas Thienpont began his life studying law and philosophy and worked for a time as a teacher.  In the 1980’s he returned to his family farm which was focused primarily on cereals, cattle, plums and kiwis.  In 1985 Nicolas assisted his cousin in the management of Vieux Chateau Certan, and a decade later the Corre-Macquin family asked him to take over at the helm of Chateau Pavie Macquin. 

Harvest Notes:

Green harvest is carried out in two passages, one after bunch closure in order to eliminate overcrowding, the second at veraison, to regulate the charge and maturity. The rule of thumb is: socks on a washing line!  Leaf-thinning compliments this work by ensuring a good level of aeration and healthy microclimate for the maturing grapes.  Careful analysis allows us to follow the evolution of the sugar and acid levels of the berries while tasting follows their phenolic maturation and we can therefore carefully choose the date of the harvest.  The harvested grapes are sorted both by hand and by the use of vibrating tables and the whole, uncrushed, berries are deposited in the tanks by conveyor belt, giving a perfect cap that resembles an open pot of caviar.

Merlots picked from 8 to 13 October; Cabernets picked 15 October.

 

Caravan Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $37
Second Label of Darioush
Retail Price of Darioush: $67

Varietal:
78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec
Fruit Source: 100% Estate Grown
Cooperage: 22 months in 70% French oak, medium toast Bordeaux barrels
Alcohol: 14.4%

Tasting Notes:

This is a fantastic showing of a Napa Valley Bordeaux blend.  It’s got that classic Cabernet dustiness, but the rich, ripe California fruit is the star of the show.  There is sweetness on the nose that reminds me of stewed fruit along with dark berries like black currant and raspberry.  It’s a big wine that will age nicely, but it is also very approachable now.  The tannins are smooth and well balanced.  At $37, it might be a splurge, but for a well made Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s a pretty good value.  Cheap is relative in Napa these days.

You can find the 2008 Caravan online through various outlets on Snooth.com.  In the Austin area, you’ll find it at either of the Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I hate to say eat a hamburger with a $37 bottle of wine, but if it’s an amazing, out of this world, hamburger like the ones at The Burger Joint in New York, then I suppose I could justify the expense.  That was the very first thing that popped into my head.  However, this would also work quite well with any number of grilled or braised meats.  It’s an elegant wine that would make a great addition to a wine list because of its versatility.


About Caravan:

Caravan is the second label of Darioush.  Darioush Khaledi  founded Darioush in 1997. Khaledi grew up in Iran's Shiraz region, a wine-growing region until the Islamic revolution. His father made wine as a hobby, and as a young boy, Khaledi used to sneak sips from the barrel.  As an adult, he became a devoted collector of fine wines.  Immigrating to the United States in the late 1970's Khaledi's passion for wine never waned. In the early 1990's he embarked on a worldwide search for the ultimate vineyard estate. Darioush is the culmination of this search.


Focused to the limited production of red Bordeaux varietals and small lots of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Shiraz, Darioush employs minimal intervention winemaking techniques. The Darioush Estate is committed to hand harvesting and hand sorting each grape cluster prior to crushing. This is a meticulous and labor-intensive method, but it ensures that only the finest, fully matured grapes are used. This approach includes small lot whole cluster pressing, destemming, cold soaking, extended maceration, barrel-to-barrel racking and bottling without filtration.

About Napa Valley:

The first commercial vineyard was established in Napa Valley in 1858, but due to the outbreak of phylloxera, the institution of Prohibition and the Great Depression, wine making in Napa didn’t really take off until the 1970’s.  In fact, it was the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 (see Chad’s Recommending Wine Reading List at the top of the page) that really catapulted Napa Valley onto the world stage when a Napa Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon bested numerous famous French labels in a blind tasting.

Napa Valley is flanked by the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and north and the Vaca Mountains to the east.  The soil contains large amounts of volcanic lava and ash.  There are over 450 wineries in the Napa AVA today and an acre of prime vineyard land goes for more than $200,000, up from only $5,000 in 1970.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Brimming with sweet black fruits, anise and chocolate truffle, this classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is polished and pleasing. Incredibly smooth on the palate, this Cabernet has notes of cherry cola, supported by French roast coffee and chocolate. Soft, well-balanced tannins extend the long and lingering finish.

 

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $11
Second Label of Boekenhoutskloof
Retail Price of Boekenhoutskloof: $45

Varietal: 100% Syrah
Fruit Source:
Malmesbury and Wellington
Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:

The Porcupine Ridge is an excellent choice for those who prefer their Syrah earthy.  On the nose you’ll find ample amounts of tobacco, pepper and clove.  There is also an undertone of mocha or chocolate.  It’s an extremely full bodied wine with tastes of dried cherries and raspberries and a very long finish.  This is a great little bottle of wine and, while not as complex and structured as its big brother, certainly shows many of the same characteristics.

You can find the 2008 Porcupine Ridge Syrah online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

With an earthy Syrah like this, I’d like to pair it up with some game like grilled or roasted venison.  I think mushroom-based dishes would also be a nice compliment.  Of course you’re not going to go wrong with BBQ either; I’m thinking a nice plate of beef spareribs would do the trick.  If you want to try some cheese with this wine, go for an aged or hard cheese like Gouda or parmesan.

About Porcupine Ridge:

Porcupine Ridge is the second label of Boekenhoutskloof (Pronounced “Book-n-Howed”).  In 1776, the Boekenhoutskloof farm was founded in the Franschhoek Valley.  A Boekenhout is an indigenous Cape beech tree that was greatly prized for furniture making.

The French Huguenots were the first people to settle and employ the soils and Mediterranean climate for growing grape vines.  The farm is located 40 minutes northeast of Cape Town.  In 1993 the farm and homestead were bought and restored.  A new vineyard planning program was established and now includes Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Semillon and Viognier.

About Paarl and the Franschhoek Valley:

For most of the 20th century, Paarl was the heart of the South African wine industry.  It was the home of KWV, the low-quality cooperative that dominated the industry from its founding in 1918 until the end of apartheid.  Gradually the focus shifted southwards to Stellenbosch where Stellenbosch University took on a prominent role as having one of the world’s leading viticulture and winemaking programs.

The Franschoek Valley is a ward of Paarl.  A small but significant region, it lies to the west of Stellenbosch.  Surrounded by the Drakenstein Mountains, the wide variety of soils and relatively high rainfall permits production of a wide variety of wine styles.  It's a hotter region than Stellenbosch, and with its profusion of trendy restaurants it can rightfully claim to be the gourmet capital of the wine lands.

About the Winemaker:

Marc Kent, 35, has been responsible for some of South Africa’s most talked about wines for a few years now.  Marc’s first Boekenhoutskloof wine was made in 1996, although he and his business partners bought his historic Franschhoek property back in 1993. Winemaking wasn’t his first career choice: he was on course to be a pilot with the South African air force when the changing political landscape derailed this option. Growth has been fairly rapid. From an initial 6000 bottles in 1996, and in 1997 just 1000 more, now production is running at 1.3–1.5 million, of which 80% is Porcupine Ridge.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Powerful and full bodied with concentrated flavors of black pepper, raspberry, mulberry and liquorish. The porcupine Syrah has a long finish with a bitter chocolate aftertaste. The fruit is predominantly sourced in Malmesbury, with a small portion of Wellington fruit also used. Certain parcels are naturally fermented, but most are inoculated with selected Rhone strains.  About a third remains unoaked, the balance is matured in old French barrels and on French oak staves

 

Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $15.50                  
Second Label of Guigal Gigondas                 
Retail Price of Gigondas: $30


Varietal Content: 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre
Cooperage: 18 months in oak foudres
Alcohol: 14%

Tasting Notes:

This dark ruby wine is a long-time Robert Parker favorite.  It was very reserved straight out of the bottle, but once it opened up for thirty minutes, it hit me with aromas of rich, concentrated dark berries along with generous amounts of pepper and spice.  It had nice, round tannins and a long finish, another amazing 2007 Rhone Valley wine.  I have yet to drink a bad Rhone wine from this vintage.  It was an exceptional year, so I’d suggest picking up as many 2007’s as you can get your paws on.

You can find the 2007 Guigal Cotes-du-Rhone online through our Wine Shop.  In the Austin area, it’s also available at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

We actually paired this wine with a course at a recent wild game dinner.  I prepared a Braised Antelope Hind Quarter on Blue Cheese Cauliflower Mash and Shaved Brussel Sprouts sautéed in butter.  Click here to see all five courses from the meal as well as the wine pairings.  If you don’t have any antelope handy, this would be a fantastic wine with grilled root vegetables, a good juicy hamburger or some roasted chicken.

About Guigal:

The Guigal Cotes-du-Rhone could be considered a second wine of their Gigondas due to the varietal blend.  The Guigal domain was founded in 1946 by Etienne Guigal in the ancient village of Ampuis, home of the wines of the Côte-Rôtie. In these vineyards that are over 2400 years old, you can still see the small terraced walls characteristic of the Roman period. Etienne Guigal arrived in this region in 1923 at the age of 14. He made wine for over 67 vintages and, at the beginning of his career, participated in the development of the Vidal-Fleury establishment.

Despite his young age, Marcel Guigal took over from his father in 1961 when the latter was victim to a brutal illness rendering him blind. Marcel's hard work and perseverance enabled the Guigals to buy out Vidal-Fleury in 1984, although the establishment retains its own identity and commercial autonomy. In 2000, the Guigals purchased the Jean-Louis Grippat estate in Saint-Joseph and Hermitage, as well as the Domaine de Vallouit in Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage.

About Cotes-du-Rhone:

The Cotes-du-Rhone appellation stretches from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south.  There are 875 produces and 70 co-operative wineries included in the region, making it one of the largest single appellation regions in the world.  The primary grape varietals for red wine here include Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre.

Wines have been produced in the Rhone Valley since pre-Roman times, and those from the right bank of the river were favorites of kings and popes.  In the mid-17th century they issued regulations governing the quality of their wines.  This formed the early basis of today’s French appellation system.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Deep and dark red, notes of fresh fruits with red berries and spices. Full, round and racy with rounded and smooth tannins.  A full-bodied, rich and intensely aromatic wine. Full with a long finish and plenty of elegance and finesse due to the well balanced tannins and fruit.

 

Remoissenet Pere & Fils Bourgogne 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $18
Second Label of Remoissenet classified white Burgundies
Retail Price of classified Remoissenet: $30-59

Varietal: 100% Chardonnay (70% from Chablis)

Cooperage: 14 months in French oak (10% new)
Alcohol: 13%

Tasting Notes:


This Remoissenet Bourgogne (Burgundy) is a wine made from declassified juice by a leading producer in Burgundy.  Although 70% of the grapes come from vineyards in Chablis, it cannot be called Chablis, and while the other 30% come from esteemed vineyards in places like Montrachet and St. Romain, it too cannot carry those names.  Instead it must be labeled as a lowly Bourgogne because it is sourced from various parts of the appellation rather than one single region. 

But do not let the label fool you.  This is a well crafted, very balanced wine at a great price.  On the nose you’ll find ample amounts of lemon, apricots and peaches with apple in the background.  You can also find honey notes along the way.  It is a smooth, medium bodied wine and, in my estimation, displays the true characteristics of the Chardonnay grape more than most other wines in this price range. 

The 2008 Remoissenet Pere & Fils Bourgogne can be found online or in person at Specs.  You can also track it down online through various outlets on Snooth.com.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This Bourgogne is one of the more versatile wines we’ve reviewed in some time.  It is so well balanced that you could put it up against any number of dishes including roasted chicken or Cornish hen, a simple pasta dish with garlic and olive oil or something more complicated like a lobster linguini.  This would also be a lovely selection for anything featuring white fish.  I think this would be a great wine at a restaurant or in a group setting where people will be eating a variety of different foods at the same time. 


A Memo from Charles M. Bear Dalton of Specs on Remoissenet:

In 1997, I got to visit Remoissenet for the first of several times. At the winery, I met the very interesting (Robert Parker called him “dashing”, others might say “eccentric”) Roland Remoissenet who presided over a negoçiant firm more focused on selling aged rather than fresh wines. While visiting him over the years, I got an education in how Burgundy ages from the bottles he generously opened from his cellars. I tasted several birth year wines (in my case, 1959 – which was a great vintage) and routinely bought wines for Specs from vintages in the ‘50s,‘60s, and ‘70s.  I also got a kick out of the naval canon in his office that he had aimed across the street at Louis Jadot’s front door, the fully functional circus calliope in his Beaune ramparts cellar, the collection of armor, arms, and rare musical instruments in his suburban Beaune home.

Roland was a character who lived his life - including stints as a fighter pilot and as a Disney background artist – to the fullest. In 2005, Roland (now the last of his line) sold his family business to a partnership of (primarily) New York financier Edward Millstein – an avid Burgundy collector (+/-80% interest) – and Maison Louis Jadot. (+/-20% interest.). I think it is safe to say that the canon in the office has been redirected.

Like the canon, the winery has changed directions. The new company retained former Louis Jadot manager Bernard Repolt and quickly hired former Wine Advocate Burgundy editor Pierre Rovani. Remoissenet immediately began to transform from a mostly negoçiant house with limited vineyard holdings (less than 10 acres) to more of a domaine model while still maintaining some vineyard contracts (Remoissenet has long gotten and still gets the grapes from the Baron Thenard vines in Montachet – Thenard has the largest holding in Montrachet – and Givry, as well as others). The new ownership has begun buying vineyards for the expanded domaine holdings and these wines are now making it into the market.

When the wines first came back on the market after the sale, all the markups in the new distribution chain between the winery and Spec’s made the wines too expensive for what they were - so we (Spec’s) quit buying them. Time passed and some things changed. I got an invitation to visit Remoissenet again and taste with Rovani – which I accepted last March. My visit with the very entertaining and informative Rovani revealed a plus-sized party animal and all around wild man, a walking encyclopedia on all things Burgundy, and a fanatic for quality (he stands at the end of the sorting table during harvest as the last line of defense rejecting any less than perfect berries before they go into the crusher).

After my visit, we worked out a more efficient importation channel which got the prices down to the point where the wines now offer excellent value at retail. I ordered the wines in May of 2010 and they arrived – due to the technicalities and legalities of establishing that new import channel - in late fall of 2010. The wines are now on the shelf and they are excellent.

 

Les Douves de la Tour Carnet 2000

Picture
Retail Price: $26
Second Label of Chateau La Tour Carnet
Retail Price of Chateau La Tour Carnet: $53

Varietal: 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot

Cooperage: 18 months in French oak
Alcohol: 12.5%

Tasting Notes:


From the fantastic 2000 vintage, the Les Douves de La Tour Carnet is a real treat to crack open.  Unlike many second labels, it receives remarkably similar care and attention as the Chateau’s grand vin.  After 18 months in French oak, the Cabernet-dominated wine is quite complex with aromas of dried cranberry, black plum, green bell pepper, tobacco, vanilla and liquorish.  A lot of the tannins have fallen out of this decade old wine, so there is considerable sediment in the bottle.  I would suggest decanting it 20 to 30 minutes before serving.  If you’re looking to try older Bordeaux without the sticker shock, this is a great option from a great harvest.

You can find the 2000 Les Douves de La Tour Carnet online in our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Because the tannins are very mild on this older Bordeaux, I’d advise against fatty meats that you would typical pair with Cabernet-based wines.  Instead I’d opt for leaner, sweeter meats.  The first thought that comes to mind would be a stuffed pork loin with figs and nuts or a bread stuffing.  A simple thick-cut pork chop might also do the trick.  Just try to keep the fat level to a minimum or you will overshadow an otherwise lovely wine.

About Le Douves de La Tour Carnet:

Le Douves de La Tour Carnet is the second label of the Fourth Growth La Tour Carnet estate.  9,000 cases of the second wine are produced each year compared to 15,000 cases of the grand vin.  The average age of the vines used for the second wine is an astounding 30 years and it is aged for 18 months on the lees in French oak barrels with regular pumping-over.

About Chateau La Tour Carnet:

Chateau La Tour Carnet is located in the Haut-Medoc appellation and was classified as a Fourth Growth Bordeaux in the 1855 Classification.  The estate dates back to the middle ages, and although the details of its origin are foggy, it takes its name from Jean Carnet, an heir of Jean de Foix who is believed to be responsible for building the Chateau tower.  La Tour Carnet was sold to Bernard Magrez in 1999, who at the time owned a number of other Bordeaux estates including Paper Clement in Pessac-Leognan and Fombruage in Saint Emilion.

Chateau La Tour Carnet includes 310 acres of which 180 acres are under vine planted with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot of red varietals.  The distribution of white varietals is 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Gris and 30% Semillon.  The primary soil type is Gunzian gravel on a bed of clay and limestone, and the vineyards have a slight slope facing south, southwest.

About Bernard Magrez:

Bernard Magrez was born in Bordeaux in 1936.  The son of a stonemason, he has become a billionaire in the beverage industry.  At age 28 he purchased a small port importer in Bordeaux and renamed it William Pitters.  He then continued to build a line of spirits which would dominate the French market under the names of William Peel, San Jose and Malesan.  He then sold his hard liquor interests and began to acquire high-end Bordeaux estates such as Chateau Pape Clement, Chateau Fombrauge and Chateau La Tour Carnet.  He also owns estates in Spain, Argentina and California.  The Bernard Magrez group generates more than forty million euros in revenue per year.

Winemaker’s Notes:

The dense purple-color boasts a sweet nose of graphite intermixed with cassis, licorice, and toasty espresso notes. A bright and balanced wine that, when left to sit in the glass, presents elegant floral notes. Ripe and medium- to full-bodied, it is the finest Les Douves de La Tour Carnet produced in many decades.

 

Banfi Rosso di Montalcino 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $25
Second Label of Banfi Brunello di Montalcino
Retail Price of Brunello: $75

Varietal: 100% Sangiovese
Fruit Source: Estate vineyards in the southern hills of Montalcino

Aging: 12 months in French oak, 6 months in bottle before release
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:


In honor of the Montalcino producer’s vote last week to maintain the integrity of the region’s Rosso wines (Baby Brunellos), we will review a wonderful bottle of Rosso from Banfi.  The proposal put forward was to allow grapes other than Sangiovese into wines classified as Rosso di Montalcino which many, including myself, believe would defeat the entire purpose of having a Rosso wine at all (see below under “About Rosso di Montalcino”).

This Banfi Rosso is a firecracker with bright fresh cherries jumping out of the glass followed closely by plums and liquorish.  It’s a bright, young wine that serves its purpose – to quench one’s thirst while its big brother is aging in the cellar.  It’s a medium bodied wine with a medium finish, mild tannins and medium to high acid to compliment those tomatoes Kori talks about below.

I would not hesitate to plop down $25 for this little guy any day of the week.  It’s not particularly complex, but it’s well balanced and would be a great crowd pleaser at any gathering.

You can find the 2009 Banfi Rosso di Montalcino online through our Wine Shop.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I love Rosso di Montalcinos because many of them are affordable, high quality options to pour with one of my favorite ingredients – tomatoes.  Sangiovese is really one of the only grapes that seem to have been created with tomatoes in mind.  This Banfi is no exception and it cries out for a classic margherita pizza.  It’s not a fancy wine, so keep it simple.  In fact, a slice from Sal and Carmine’s on the Upper West Side of Manhattan would fit the bill just fine.  I love that place.  In lieu of a visit to New York, any dish where tomatoes or tomato sauce is the key ingredient would work fine like lasagna or spaghetti marinara.  Just be sure not to be too heavy handed with the spice.  Keep it mild to medium and it will enhance the wine and the food.


About Rosso di Montalcino:

The Rosso di Montalcino DOC was established in 1984 as a means of giving Brunello producers the flexibility to continue the tradition of long aging of the region's flagship wine. The Rosso is made from 100% Sangiovese grown in the same delineated region as Brunello. However, the wine is required to spend only six months aging in oak and 1 year total aging before release. This allows Brunello producers to make an earlier releasing wine that can generate cash flow while their Brunello age for their complete duration. Rosso di Montalcino is typically lighter, fresher and more approachable upon release though some producers will make wines with more Brunello like characteristics. 

About Montalcino:

The story of Montalcino’s success beings during the frequent clashes of the Renaissance's great city-states.  Italy was not then a nation but a territory fought over by powerful foreign neighbors and her own city-states. Montalcino, like many other small towns was a pawn in their struggles. Its star turn came in the 1550s, at the end of the serial warfare between Siena and the Medici princes of Florence.


Montalcino had prospered and grown during her long alliance with Siena; her people had won Sienese citizenship and built their mighty walls and fortress. In 1553 the armies of Cosimo de' Medici and his Spanish allies attacked. Their assault on the fortress failed but the citizens refused to surrender despite three months of siege. Two years later Siena fell, but her leaders escaped. Montalcino gave shelter to them, knowing full well that the government-in-exile--the Republic of Siena in Montalcino--would enrage the Medicis.

In the end, Montalcino fell as much from peace as from war: When France (Siena's ally) and Spain (Florence's) came to terms, embattled Montalcino was helpless, and soon the Medici crest was hung on the fortress wall, where it remains today. That began a long decline for the city; it lasted centuries and was ended only by a development in the world of wine: the creation of Brunello di Montalcino.

The region's farmers had made wine for centuries, but a breakthrough came in the late 1800s, when attention was focused on the Brunello grape (it was actually Sangioveto Grosso, a clone of Chianti's Sangiovese). This variety yielded superior wine, but news spread slowly because Italy's reputation in the wine world was held down by overproduction and lack of regulation.

Market success began in the 1960’s. DOC regulations gave quality a chance to stand out, and Brunello won DOC status in 1966 (it became the first of the elevated DOCG wines in 1980). Its "little brother," Rosso di Montalcino, from the same grape (but aged only one year instead of four), showed enough class to win DOC rank in 1984.  Thus, Montalcino has evolved from one of Tuscany’s poorest hilltop towns to its most prosperous.  The number of wine growers in Montalcino has increased from around 70 in the late 1970s to over 200 today. 

About the Founder of Banfi:

The founder of Banfi Vintners was John Mariani, Sr., an American of Italian heritage who established a wine house in New York in 1919, a year before the unthinkable happened: America voted "dry," and Prohibition became the law of the land. He adapted to conditions by concentrating on imported spices and other Italian specialties as well as the manufacture of medicinal bitters, an alcohol product permitted under the new law. These items kept the firm alive for the next 13 years.


Mariani found himself exposed to Europe's fine wine offerings early in life. He was born in 1895 in Torrington, Connecticut, but when he was nine years old, his father, a carriage maker, died. Financial circumstances then forced his mother to return to Italy with him and five siblings. They resided with her sister, Teodolinda Banfi, who, albeit unwittingly, planted the seeds for her nephew's future choice of career. At the time, she was serving as chief of the household staff of the Cardinal Archbishop of Milan, Achille Ratti, a position she continued to enjoy when he was elected Pope Pius XI in 1922.  It seems that among her duties was the selection of the Pontiff's wines, decisions that invariably proved a topic of conversation at the Banfi table.

Mariani grew the firm and turned it over to his sons in 1963.  He died on December 24, 1972.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Color: intense ruby red with violet reflections. Bouquet: intense, fresh, fruity with typical varietal characteristics of violet, cherry, plum. Taste: gentle, wide, soft, with surprising length.  A super-classic of Montalcino and Banfi. A wine able to match the elegance and solidity of its elder counterpart with a freshness and directness that make it one of the most versatile wines within Banfi’s offer. Very enjoyable when released, it is also suitable for a long aging.

 

Stone Cap Merlot 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $8                   
Second Label of Goose Ridge Vineyards Merlot                   
Retail Price of Goose Ridge Vineyards: $27


Varietal Content: 100% Merlot
Fruit Source: Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard
Alcohol: 13.7%

Tasting Notes:

I’ve got to tip my cap to winemaker Kendall Mix and the folks at Goose Ridge Vineyards for creating an $8 wine that drinks like a $20 wine.  It’s not an overly complex wine, but it is well balanced and offers fantastic bang for your buck.  On the nose, you’ll find fresh cherries and strawberries, along with vanilla and a hint of clove.  It’s a medium to full bodied wine with well integrated oak and a pleasant tartness.

You can find the Stone Cap Merlot online through a variety of sources.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is a fairly simple wine, so pair it with fairly simple foods.  To me, this wine really needs some fatty meat to balance out the tannins properly.  I’d go with a nice rib eye and a baked potato or a just a well made hamburger.  Don’t over complicate it.   

About Stone Cap:

Stone Cap is the second label of Goose Ridge Vineyards in Washington’s Columbia Valley.  Founded by the Monson Family in 1999, Goose Ridge is an estate winery with a 1,400 acre vineyard that is sheltered from Seattle’s maritime climate by the towering Cascade Mountain Range.  It receives less than 8 inches of rainfall annually.  It is a gently sloped, south-facing site adjacent to Red Mountain. Long, warm summer days and cool nights produce grapes noted for their ripe, rich character.  Goose Ridge had their first harvest in 1999.

About the Columbia Valley:

The Columbia Valley in eastern Washington State encompasses the valleys formed by the Columbia River and its tributaries, including the Walla Walla River, the Snake River and the Yakima River.  The Columbia valley stretches between the 46th parallel and 47th parallel which puts it in line with the well known French wine growing regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. The northern latitude gives the areas two more hours of additional daylight during the summer growing season than wine regions of California.  The volcanic and sandy loam soil of the valley offers good drainage and is poor in nutrients, ideal in forcing the vine to concentrate its resources into the grape clusters. 

Eight smaller AVA’s designate unique growing areas of special distinction within the larger Columbia Valley AVA. These are the Yakima Valley AVA, the Red Mountain AVE, the Walla Walla AVA, the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, Lake Chelan AVA, Snipes Mountain AVA and the Wahluke Slope AVA.

About the Winemaker:

Justin Michaud started in the wine industry in Santa Cruz working for a small vineyard company that supplied grapes to local wineries. In 2002, he moved to Walla Walla and has worked in the Washington wine industry ever since. He spent time in the cellar at Canoe Ridge Vineyards before becoming the cellar master at Bergiven Lane Vineyards. In 2005, he spent a harvest in New Zealand at Kim Crawford and then returned to Walla Walla to work at Ash Hollow Vineyards. Justin spent 4 vintages with Ash Hollow and worked his way up to winemaker.  The 2009 vintage was his first at Goose Ridge, and he was recently promoted to Winemaker for Stone Cap after spending his first two years as Assistant Winemaker to Kendall Mix.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Velvety and smooth with rich flavors of red berry, plum and ripe cherry, highlighted with notes of mocha and spice. The StoneCap Merlot is superb served with veal, grilled salmon and medium bodied cheeses.

 

Vieux Telegramme Chateauneuf Du Pape 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $45
Second Label of Telegraphe Chateauneuf Du Pape

Retail Price of Telegraphe: $85


Varietal: 90% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre
Vine Age: Average of 25 years old
Cooperage: In vats for 10 months, then 6-8 months in large oak barrels

Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:

Maybe it’s a bit of a splurge at $45 a bottle, but cracking open a good Chateauneuf Du Pape from the 2007 vintage is worthy of a special occasion.  It was a spectacular year in a spectacular region and the Vieux Telegramme is a poster child for what a wine from this area of the southern Rhone should taste like.

This is a slightly filtered wine overflowing with dark fruit like black currants and raspberries, along with pepper, spice and clove.  But the one overriding profile is the stewed prunes and ripe mission figs.  It’s a very balanced wine that resembles the first wine much more than most second labels.

The 2007 Vieux Telegramme Chateauneuf Du Pape can be found in the Austin area at both Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.  Generally speaking, I suggest seeking out as many 2007 Rhone Valley wines as possible.  I have yet to taste a bad 2007 from the region.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This Chateauneuf Du Pape is a divine pairing with braised short ribs.  In fact, we poured it at a dinner party at our friend Kelly’s house early in the year.  The short ribs were served on a blue cheese and cauliflower mash with shaved brussel sprouts and a reduction sauce.  Click here to see a photo of the plate and the other courses from the dinner.  You might also try braised rabbit, stewed or grilled lamb, duck confit or venison sausage.  This is a great and versatile wine.

About Vieux Telegramme:

Vieux Telegramme is the second label of Vieux Telegraphe.  Télégramme originated from the difficult 2002 vintage. That year, there was no Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, so nearly all of the red Châteauneuf-du-Pape went into that new label.  Since then it has become a mainstay with all vines aged 30 years and under dedicated to it; the older vines are reserved for the first wine.

Telegramme receives exactly the same care as do the old vines, although the vinification and maturing are markedly different.  A second wine is expected to be fruity, somewhat supple, and more readily accessible. This sets the tone for vinification, particularly through shorter maceration, more intense working of the must, and slightly shorter maturation so as to encourage fruity freshness.

About Vieux Telegraphe:

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe takes its name from an old telegraph station that formerly stood on the hill where the winery now calls home.  The 173-acre vineyard was started in 1898 when Hippolyte Brunier planted vines on the Plateau de la Crau.  The ground is covered by the galets roules, the large rounded stones which originated in the Alps to the east, and were transported down to lower lands by the action of floodwaters. Beneath these stones there is a more organic soil, and then deeper still there is red clay.

The oldest vines are Grenache, which account for 65% of the vineyard area. There is also Syrah (15%) , Mourvèdre (15%), Cinsaut and a mix other varieties, some of which are white, including Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and Bourboulenc, altogether totaling just 5% of the vineyard. The white vines have an average age of around 35 years.

The first label is the Vieux Télégraphe.  The fruit for this wine is destemmed and pressed, then fermented in stainless steel tanks with temperature control, for a period of two to three weeks.  The wine then goes into concrete tank for nine months, before going into large oak barrels for up to one year. The wine is bottled at two years of age, without filtration.  Importantly, neither the first nor the second label sees any new oak, in this respect it goes against what is an increasingly fashionable practice in the region.

About Chateauneuf Du Pape:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape roughly translates to "The Pope's new castle" and, indeed, the history of this appellation is firmly entwined with papal history. In 1308, Pope Clement V, former Archbishop of Bordeaux, relocated the papacy to the town of Avignon. Clement V and subsequent "Avignon Popes" were said to be great lovers of Burgundy wines and did much to promote it during the seventy-year duration of the Avignon Papacy. At the time, wine-growing around the town of Avignon was anything but illustrious. While the Avignon Papacy did much to advance the reputation of Burgundy wines, they were also promoting viticulture of the surrounding area, more specifically the area 5-10 km north of Avignon close to the banks of the Rhône River. Prior to the Avignon Papacy, viticulture of that area had been initiated and maintained by the Bishops of Avignon, largely for local consumption.

Clement V was succeeded by John XXII who, as well as Burgundy wine, regularly drank the wines from the vineyards to the north and did much to improve viticultural practices there. Under John XXII, the wines of this area came to be known as "Vin du Pape", this term later to become Châteauneuf-du-Pape. John XXII is also responsible for erecting the famous castle which stands as a symbol for the appellation.

The appellation stretches from the eastern bank of the Rhône River near Orange in the north-west to Sorgues near Avignon in the south-east. The altitude reaches 120 meters at its highest and is in the northern part of the appellation. It covers 3200 hectares of land with at least three distinct types of soil or terroirs. In the north and north-east the famous galets roules, round rocks or pebbles covering the clay soil. The rocks are famous for retaining the heat from the plentiful sun, some 2800 hours a year, releasing it at night, ripening the grapes faster than in the eastern part of the appellation, where the soil is mostly sand, as well as to the south where the soil is more gritty. The powerful mistral wind carries away the moisture, intensifying the dry climate.

 

Barn D'Or Chardonnay 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $18                   
Second Label of Davis Family Vineyards                 
Retail Price of Davis Family Vineyards: $40


Varietal Content: 100% Chardonnay
Grapes Source: Monterey County
Alcohol: 13.5%

Tasting Notes:

This is a crisp Chardonnay from Monterey County with very strong floral notes of honeysuckle and rose petal.  There is also an ample amount of tropical fruit such as nectarine and fresh pineapple.  The wine has a pleasant tartness, a medium level of acid and a medium finish.  Although it is not sourced from Russian River Valley grapes like its big brother, for $18, this is an absolute steal.  This is not a particularly complex wine, but it is well made, well balanced and a lot of fun. 

The 2008 Barn D’Or Chardonnay can be found online or in person at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The Barn D’Or is a fairly versatile wine and could be paired with just about any fish or seafood meal.  It’s big enough to stand up to strong fish like salmon, but it would also work wonderfully with more delicate, light white fish or shellfish.  We drank it recently for my father-in-law’s birthday along with a shrimp and pasta dish made with garlic, olive oil, butter and some parmesan cheese on top.  We also had a spinach salad and the acid of the wine was a nice accompaniment to the dressing.  Thanks to Chef Pat for a great meal! 

About Monterey County:

The 40,000 acres, 175 vineyards and 85 wineries of Monterey County mostly stretch along a 90-mile long valley and encompass nine different appellations.  The region’s proximity to the Pacific where ocean depths reach more than two miles just offshore have a tremendous impact on the local viticulture.  The summertime diurnal temperature variation is huge with 40 or 50 degree swings from daytime highs to nighttime lows.  This allows the grapes to ripen with high sugar content, but the drop in temperature preserves the natural acids as well. 

Winemaking first took hold in Soledad where Franciscan friars at the mission planted the first crop of vines, but it was not until the 1960’s that it became a viable commercial enterprise when the likes of Wente, Mirassou, Paul Masson, J. Lohr and Chalone began planting vineyards.  Today over 42 different varietals are being grown in Monterey County, but Chardonnay is the star of the region accounting for over half of the acres under vine.


About the Winemaker:

In 1989, Guy Davis had started working as the wine buyer for a mail order wine company specializing in wine from small, boutique wineries.  These small, hands-on winemakers became a real inspiration, and due to meeting so many of these winemakers, Davis determined to learn and master the craft of making wine himself, signed on to work the 1989 harvest at Sky Vineyards, a little winery atop Mount Veeder in Napa Valley.

On the weekends Davis laboring and learning his craft, whether it was, bottling, labeling, pruning or harvesting. He took every viticulture and Enology class offered at the college in Santa Rosa and pursued night and weekend courses in the winemaking program at the University of California at Davis.

It was after a stint as director of marketing at Kendall Jackson that he started Passport Wine Club in 1994: a mail order company that connected tiny wineries from all over the United States to consumers seeking rare, small production wines.  Passport helped Davis meet winemakers from all over the world as he imported their wines and introduced them to the U.S. market. At the same time, he was gaining a worldwide perspective of winemaking knowledge and techniques.

In 1995, Davis produced his first commercial vintage: 250 cases of old vine zinfandel from the Russian River Valley. In 1996, he bought his own vineyard in Russian River Valley comprised of 100-year-old zinfandel vines and, in 1997, crushed his first vintage under the Davis Family Vineyards label.

Passport Wine Club's growth and success resulted in Davis and his business partner being approached by Geerlings & Wade, a national wine retailer, with an offer to buy the company. They readily agreed and Davis turned his attention exclusively on Davis Family Vineyards.

Winemaker’s Notes:

The 2008 Barn D’OR Chardonnay grapes are also from Kelly (McFarland)! In April, 2008 frost hit almost all of the Chardonnay at my home vineyard. During one of my early trips to visit Kelly and my Riesling grapes last year, I commiserated with him, as we farmers tend to do when we get kicked in the tail by Mother Nature – and he took me to see the small Chardonnay damage he had from frost too…well long story short, I got a crush on one of his smaller hillside blocks and wanted to try a wine and see the result…again because of this special site and his hand at the art of growing grapes…the purity of his spirit in caring about every cluster.

The other twist to the wine is that when I was hit by frost in early Spring I cancelled my barrel order for Chardonnay…by the time I made the deal with Kelly it was too late to get the barrels I like to use here from France by harvest…so my plan was to ferment the wine in stainless steel tank then age it in barrel after the small amount of my Russian River Chardonnay that didn’t freeze was bottled and the barrels emptied…but in tasting the wine it didn’t need the oak aging; it had a beautiful character as it was, different than my Russian River, but delicious – not the citrus, but more tropical and pear. Not the complexity and depth of my Russian River Chardonnay, but instead a brightness and a wonderful pure Chardonnay expression that is a perfect fit for summer sipping by itself or with any summer dish.

The final kicker was that with no cost from the barrel, I could offer it at a lower price! I will now make a very small amount of each of these every vintage…because I love the aromas and flavors….and the creative nature of making new, fun wines – but also so I can spend time around Kelly McFarland – in his vineyards, - walking and talking and getting a little Monterey dirt on these Russian River boots of mine, in the company of a grape grower I admire. So please enjoy these with your friends and raise a glass to Friendship.

 

Crossbarn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Picture
Retail Price: $30                   
Second Label of Paul Hobbs
Retail Price of Paul Hobbs: $85


Varietal Content: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Cooperage: Aged 20 months in French and American oak barrels 
Released: Bottled unfined and unfiltered in July, 2007
Alcohol: 14.8%

Tasting Notes:

This Crossbarn is a fantastic bottle of wine from one of Napa Valley’s top producers, Paul Hobbs.  The first thing that jumps out of the glass is black cherries along with prunes, black currants and other dried dark fruit.  The fruit is incredibly concentrated and powerful.  There are also hints of pencil shavings and molasses.  It is a full bodied, jammy, fruit forward wine with well integrated tannins and a long, long finish.  Overall this is a really well made, balanced wine that would be a crowd pleaser at any gathering. 

The 2006 Crossbarn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon can be found online or in person at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This wine has such a dried fruit quality that I’d like to try serving it with a roast;North African style with a lot of dried fruits and nuts.  It’s also very versatile, so you could try it with most meats.  I think it would be particularly lovely with grilled lamb, but you could also serve it with a fillet topped with blue cheese.  Also because the wine has a touch of sweetness, I could also see bringing this out at dessert with a dark chocolate soufflé.  Yummy!

About Crossbarn:

Crossbarn is a second label produced by Paul Hobbs Winery which he founded in 1991 to produce small lot, hand-crafted, vineyard designate wines. Prior to starting his own winery, Hobbs worked at Robert Mondavi Winery with the Opus One team, and in 1981 was appointed Head Enologist.  After several vintages with Opus One, he moved on to join Simi Winery in February 1985 as Assistant Winemaker.  While at Simi, Hobbs began exploring the wine-growing regions of Chile and Argentina.  During this time he met Nicolas Catena who invited him to return to Mendoza in 1989 to take charge of a new project making Argentina’s first world-class chardonnay.

The Paul Hobbs Winery began with just three wines—one chardonnay, one pinot noir and one cabernet sauvignon.  Paul Hobbs wines were produced at shared facilities through 1998, when he purchased 19 acres of land in the Russian River Valley. Fourteen acres were planted to five clones of pinot noir and became the Lindsay Vineyard, named in honor of his great grandmother. In 2003, he completed construction of a gravity flow winery overlooking the vineyard.  In addition to making wine in California and in Mendoza with Vina Cobos, Hobbs is currently a consultant for wineries in the U.S., Argentina, Chile, France and Canada.

About Napa Valley:

By far the most famous appellation in California is the Napa Valley.  Encompassing virtually all of Napa County as well as 14 distinct AVAs (American Viticultural Area), this extensive valley system, is home to the cradle of California’s viticultural history. 

Napa Valley opens to the south where the climate is shaped by the maritime influences of the great San Pablo Bay. This regular influx of cool, damp air creates a meso-climate that is significantly different from that of the Northern reaches of the valley where the day’s heat can remain trapped and accumulates over the course of the summer growing season.

The other great influences on the climate of the valley are the mountains that frame its contours. With the Mayacamas Range separating Napa from Sonoma on the west and the Vaca range defining the valley’s eastern boundary there are many varied exposures, elevations, and soils here that have been deemed worthy of special attention.

About the Winemaker:

Jason Valenti joined Paul Hobbs Winery as an intern for the 2005 harvest upon graduating from U.C. Davis’ Viticulture and Enology program.  “I wanted to work for Paul because he was and still is one of the few vintners making terroir-driven wines across the three major varietals; chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon.  To work with Ritchie Vineyard chardonnay, Hyde Vineyard pinot noir and Beckstoffer To Kalon cabernet sauvignon all under the same roof was a unique and very special experience for me.  Cellar work at harvest transitioned into a post-harvest lab position and eventually the full-time Enologist position, which I held through the 2007 crush.  In 2008, after a six-month stint at Kosta Browne Winery, I returned to the Paul Hobbs family as Winemaker for CrossBarn Winery.  I consider it an honor to work with Paul and the team in developing CrossBarn from a second label to a full-fledged brand with its own unique style and identity.”  Jason lives in Sonoma County with his wife Clementina and two children, Sophia and Samuel.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Showing great depth of flavor and bold structure, this deep garnet cabernet sauvignon is brimming with aromas of cassis and sweet tobacco. The palate is silky and full-bodied, opening with pure, concentrated flavors of dark cherry and black currant. Ripe tannins and notes of cedar and vanillin weave their way in over a long finish.

This wine was fermented using native yeasts, undergoing an average of 25 days total maceration. Aged 20 months in French and American oak barrels, it was bottled unfined and unfiltered July 2007.

Harvest Notes:

2006 was slightly cooler overall than 2005 and began with delayed bud break due to an unusually long, wet spring. Warmer, drier weather prevailed in May and June. The crop set was smaller than that of 2005. A mid-July heat spike accelerated ripening through summer, helping compensate for the slow start to the growing season. Cooler October weather offered extended hang time and allowed for a well-paced harvest of outstanding quality, with fruit boasting excellent density, aromatics and acidity.

 

Aires Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2006

Picture
Retail Price: $19
Second Label of Robert Sinskey Vineyards
Retail Price of Robert Sinskey: $38

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Fruit Source: Capa Vineyard, Los Carneros
Production: 59 barrels produced
Alcohol: 14%

Tasting Notes:

One of the coolest things about this wine is that it’s a single vineyard wine, but you don’t know it until you uncork it and the name of the vineyard is stamped on the cork.  It’s almost like a speakeasy kind of wine.  You don’t realize what’s under the cork until you open it.  The fruit for this Aires was sourced from the Capa Vineyard in the Los Carneros AVA in Napa Valley. 

When you put your nose in the glass, it makes you feel like you’re out picking wild berries in a field.  It’s an aroma of dark, rich, ripe wild strawberries and you’ll also find cherries, cranberries and a bit of spice.  This is a nice medium bodied wine with mild tannins and a medium finish.  It’s very well balanced and a great bargain under $20 for a California Pinot Noir from a top-end producer.  I’d buy it by the case for Thanksgiving.

You can find the 2006 Aires Los Carneros Pinot Noir online or in person at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Let’s be obvious and just get the duck confit out of the way straight out of the gate.  This is a duck wine if I’ve ever tasted one.  I could also see this being a great pairing with well roasted meats like turkey and chicken.  So take note all you Thanksgiving wine shoppers; this Aires would be a show stopper for dinner on the 24th.  This wine would also work well with gamier meats because of the berry profile.  Overall, it’s a lovely, versatile wine; a sure fire winner for the holidays.

About Aries:

Aires is the second label of Robert Sinskey Vineyards.  Each year RSV makes thirty-two lots of Pinot Noir, each corresponding to a small patch of vineyard. After crafting the blends for RSV’s Carneros, Four Vineyards and single vineyard bottlings, invariably there are a few delicious odds and ends that don’t fit entirely into the main blends.  These come together to create Aries Pinot Noir. Blending decisions take place after all the money’s been spent, so the same care and investment goes into Aries as the main label wines. There’s no purchased fruit in the bottle; the grapes that become Aries are entirely from RSV’s own certified organic and biodynamic vineyards in Carneros.

About Los Carneros and Capa Vineyard:

Los Carneros AVA includes parts of both Sonoma and Napa counties.  It is located north of San Pablo Bay.  The proximity to the cool fog and breezes from the bay makes the climate in Los Carneros cooler and more moderate than the wine regions further north in Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley.  The cooler climate has made it an attractive place for cultivation of cooler climate varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Many of the grapes grown in Los Crneros are used for sparkling wine production.  It received its AVA status in 1983 and has the distinction of being the first wine region in California to be defined by its climate characteristics rather than political boundaries.

Capa Vineyard, located within Los Carnernos AVA, has a slope which faces southwest with a perfect aspect to the afternoon summer sun, leading to fully ripe fruit that yields a balanced wine with well-developed tannins.  The vineyard was named after Robert Sinskey’s border collie, Capa.  He lived most of his 16 years on the home vineyard that was named in his honor.

About the Winemaker:

Jeff Virnig graduated in 1984 from Cal Poly with a BS in agriculture business management. From there he attended the school of hard knocks, gaining valuable hands-on viticultural experience working amongst vines at the Mayacamas vineyard and winery. In 1988, he joined Robert Sinskey Vineyards as an assistant winemaker and became one of the youngest winemakers in Napa Valley when he was promoted to winemaker in 1991.

Over the past decade, Jeff has been instrumental in developing the Los Carneros of Napa Valley vineyards owned by RSV. His emphasis has been on improving wine quality by helping the vine achieve a natural balance through soil building and sustainable farming methods. He has sought to keep the various lots and ranches separate so that they may be evaluated for their individual qualities. The separate lots allow for total flexibility in the wine making process. Jeff can apply different fermentation techniques to each lot to accentuate that lot's inherent character.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Berry, cherry and spice aromas beckon from a freshly opened bottle before you even have time to pour. Delicate but brilliant ruby color allows the eye through; honest Pinot Noir should. Opaque Pinot should rouse suspicion. Woven into the sensual texture the Pinotphile craves are raspberry and black cherry fruit accented by clove, vanilla and cinammon.

 

Kali Hart Pinot Noir 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $18
Second Label of Talbott
Retail Price of Talbott: $37

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Fruit Source: Sleepy Hollow Vineyard (Santa Lucia Highlands)
Aged: 5 months in French oak (20% new)
Alcohol: 14.38%

Tasting Notes:

We’re going to stick with Pinot Noir in the lead up to Thanksgiving and highlight another exceptional value from Talbott Vineyards in Monterey County.  The Kali Hart is a single-vineyard, estate-grown second label that packs a lot of punch at over 14% alcohol which will be great for the holidays as it will stand up to most anything you put on the table. 

It’s a very bright wine with aromas of fresh cherries, blueberries, plums and vanilla.  It’s a medium to full bodied wine with medium grape tannins, mild oak tannins and a long finish.  In spite of the high alcohol content, it’s still well balanced, but it is a little shy at first, so decant it for 30-45 minutes before serving.  That’s when the fruit really shines.

Some of you may remember that we profiled the Kali Hart Chardonnay earlier in the year and found it to be an exceptional value as well.  You could definitely do worse than an all Kali Hart Thanksgiving with both their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the table.  Both give you great bang for the buck and are real crowd pleasers under $20.

You can find both Kali Hart wines online or in person at Specs or at both Austin area Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Thanksgiving is arguably the worst meal to try and pair with wine.  However, this Pinot Noir is a great compliment to roasted turkey, but it’s also big and bold enough to stand up to all of those casseroles and whatever else your aunt or cousin unexpectedly plop on the table.  It’s a very versatile wine, so while it might not be the perfect pairing for everything in your Thanksgiving feast, it will hold its own. 

Beyond the holidays, look to pair this wine with roasted duck breast or a grilled salmon on cedar plant.  But be careful, this is a strong Pinot Noir and it could very easily overpower more delicate salmon preparations.  With this wine generally look to do lighter preparations of darker meats and forceful preparations of lighter meats.

About Kali Hart:

Kali Hart is the second label of Talbott Vineyards and is named after the founder’s youngest daughter.  After a successful career in the designer necktie business in nearby Carmel, Robb Talbott began planting his original Diamond T. Estate vineyard with Corton-Charlemange Chardonnay clones in 1982.  Twelve years later, Robb acquired the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, a short 13 miles from Monterey Bay, which made Talbott an all-estate winery. 

About Monterey County and Sleepy Hollow Vineyard:

The 40,000 acres, 175 vineyards and 85 wineries of Monterey County mostly stretch along a 90-mile long valley and encompass nine different appellations.  The region’s proximity to the Pacific where ocean depths reach more than two miles just offshore have a tremendous impact on the local viticulture.  The summertime diurnal temperature variation is huge with 40 or 50 degree swings from daytime highs to nighttime lows.  This allows the grapes to ripen with high sugar content, but the drop in temperature preserves the natural acids as well. 

Winemaking first took hold in Soledad where Franciscan friars at the mission planted the first crop of vines, but it was not until the 1960’s that it became a viable commercial enterprise when the likes of Wente, Mirassou, Paul Masson, J. Lohr and Chalone began planting vineyards.  Today over 42 different varietals are being grown in Monterey County, but Chardonnay is the star of the region accounting for over half of the acres under vine.

The fruit for the Kali Hart Pinot Noir comes from sev­eral different blocks of the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, located in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.  This 565-acre hillside vineyard is divided into three separate vineyard parcels, Sleepy Hollow West, Sleepy Hollow South and Sleepy Hollow North. Both the West and South parcels are planted on Arroyo Seco gravelly loam soil, which allows excellent root penetration, enabling the vines to pick up subsoil minerals that increase flavor complexity. These sparse, well-drained soils also reduce yields, creating rich, concentrated flavors in the grapes. The vineyard’s predominately east-northeast exposure, combined with its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, contributes to a cool growing site with moderate vineyard temperatures. This results in a long growing season, giving the grapes the luxury of more hang time to develop greater varietal character.

A significant portion of the blend for the Kali Hart Pinot Noir is made up of fruit from 35-year-old Martini (Pom­mard) clone vines. These grapes are blended with fruit from more youthful elite Dijon and Pommard clone plantings.

About the Winemaker:

Dan Karlsen has been making wine in California for three decades.  His family moved to Sonoma when he was 12 years old and he later put himself through college working as a plumber, carpenter and electrician.  Dan’s entry into the wine industry came at Dry Creek Vineyard where he started as a maintenance mechanic, but he quickly took to winemaking.  Four years later, he moved to Dehlinger Winery as an assistant winemaker and later worked at Domaine Carneros where he held the position of winemaker for five years and produced award-winning sparkling wines.  Dan also worked for a decade at Chalone before joining the team at Talbott.

Winemaker’s Notes:

The 2008 Talbott Pinot Noir, Kali Hart has a youthful medium-garnet color, with superb clarity. Enticing aromas of blueberry, cherry and plum are complemented by floral notes and hints of spicy cinnamon and a touch of French oak.

On the palate, this wine delivers an impression of sweet ripe flavors of cherry, blueberry and plum, with echoes of the cinnamon aromatics. The finish is long and rich, with a subtle touch of vanillins from the French oak accenting the lingering berry fruit. In keeping with its signature style, this wine is bright, soft, supple and vividly fruit-driven.

 

Cuvee A Pinot Noir 2008

Picture
Retail Price: $25                  
Second Label of Anne Amie                  
Retail Price of Anne Amie: $36

Varietal Content: 100% Pinot Noir
Vineyards: 19% Rainbow Ridge, 18% Lafayette, 15% Hawk’s View, 11% Merten, 10% La Colina, 7% Willakia, 7% Zena Crown, 6% Gran Moraine, 5% Manning, 2% Amaranth Ridge
Soil Types: Willakenzie, Laurelwood and Jory
Cooperage: Aged 10 months in French oak, 13% new, 20% 1 year, 67% neutral
Production: 2,500 cases

Alcohol: 13.3%

Tasting Notes:

In our final installment of “Pinots for Thanksgiving,” we’ve got a lovely bottle of wine from the Willamette Valley in Oregon.  This Cuvee A from Anne Amie Vineyards has a surprising amount of sediment for a young Pinot Noir, so I would suggest a mild decanting before serving.  On the nose, the wine is very bright with fresh fruit aromas of cranberry, plums, cherry, cherry and more cherry.  It’s a medium bodied Pinot with mild grape tannins, medium oak tannins and a pleasant tartness on the finish.  For a grape that can be fickle and a wine style that is prone to inconsistency in other parts of the world, I never cease to be impressed with the quality and reliability of the Pinot Noir coming out of Oregon. 

You can find the 2008 Cuvee A Pinot Noir in the Austin area at Central Market.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Although I think this will make a nice Thanksgiving wine, I’m not as high on it as I was on the California Pinot Noirs that we reviewed the prior two weeks, mostly because it’s a much lighter-bodied wine.  I’m afraid that some of the big casseroles and mystery dishes that end up on the table might drown out this bottle.  It’s much more delicate than the other two Pinots, so I might advise putting this on your wine rack and saving it for another occasion where grilled salmon or duck confit would be in order.  Overall, it’s still a lovely wine and I certainly wouldn’t throw you out of my house if you brought it over for Thanksgiving.

About Cuvee A:

Cuvee A is the second label of Anne Amie Vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  The winery was started by Dr. Robert Pamplin, one of Oregon’s most forward-thinking philanthropists and businessmen, when he purchased the historic Chateau Benoit Winery in 1999 and charged winemaker Thomas Houseman and winegrower Jason Tosch with the task of crafting pinot noir.  Anne Amie’s estate vineyards, along with those they purchase from, receive only the minimal required treatments and yields are dramatically reduced in order to give fruit with great depth and complexity.  Their estate vineyards are located in the rolling hills of the Yamhill-Carlton District and on the steep hillsides of the Chehalem Mountains.

About the Willamette Valley:

The Willamette Valley in western Oregon is 150 miles long and 60 miles wide.  It is bordered on the north by the Columbia River, to the south by the Calapooya Mountain Range, to the east by the Cascades and to the west by Oregon’s Coast Range.  Most of the vines in the valley are planted on the hillsides on the west side.

Although it has a relatively mild climate, there is considerable moisture in the Willamette Valley.  Fortunately most of the rain falls during the winter and not during growing season.  The climate along with gravel, silt and rock soil on top of a volcanic seabed provide ideal conditions for cool weather grapes like Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.  In fact, many believe the valley produces some of the world’s finest Pinot Noir, but most did not take notice until Robert Drouhin, of the famed Joseph Drouhin wines in Burgundy, started planting vineyards here in 1988.  He declared there were only two places in the world he would grow Pinot Noir – Burgundy and Oregon.

As a region, Oregon is the only place in the new world to exclusively use French oak barrels in the aging process, and they have embraced with open arms many of the traditional old world techniques for vineyard management and winemaking. 

About the Winemaker:

Thomas Houseman, who formerly performed modern dance, went to school at CSU Fresno in the enology program.  It was there he fell in love with Pinot noir.  It was that love that took him first to California’s Anderson Valley, then to New Zealand, and finally to Oregon.  After four years at Ponzi Vineyards, Thomas saw the opportunity to express himself at Anne Amie Vineyards where he is happy he can still use words like balance, grace, fluidity, elegance, power and style- words that once described his dancing, now describe his wines.

Vineyards:

The vineyards contributing to this Willamette Valley Pinot noir are on two distinct soil types.  The sites on basaltic origin, clay-loam soils retain some moisture through our summer droughts, ensuring the development of intense fruit flavors. The warmer, earlier-ripening sites on sedimentary, silt-loam soils produce grapes with great structure and black fruit character.  All of the vineyards are located in the northern Willamette Valley.

Harvest Notes:

2008 was a Willamette Valley vintage we will all remember. The abnormally cool spring set bud break back three weeks to the fifth of May. This meant that all vine functions would have to happen within an even narrower timeframe. For fruit to ripen, we took extreme measures such as leaf pulling and shoot thinning. We doubled labor to perform these tasks in weeks instead of months to ensure the vines would function efficiently and achieve premium levels of flavor development. While our vines typically flower in mid-June, they flowered on the 4th of July. We greatly reduced vineyard crops which allowed the vine’s remaining fruit to get to a solid stage of ripeness by the second week in October. 2008’s was a surprisingly quick harvest, beginning on October 13th and ending on October 29th.

Winemaking Process:

Grapes were hand-picked and brought directly to the winery in 1/2 ton totes in perfect condition.  They were meticulously hand sorted on a shaker table then destemmed into 2-ton open top, stainless steel fermenters. The must was cold-soaked for four to seven days, which was followed by fermentation that was completed in about a week. This is followed by an extended maceration, where the wine is evaluated daily for softening of tannins and roundness of palate. The wine was on the skins for a total of 28-40 days. After draining the fermenters by gravity, the free-run and light pressings were combined and settled for 48 hours. The wine was then racked by gravity into a mixture of new and used French oak barrels. The wine aged on lees in French oak barrels for 10 months and was then blended and bottled. Once bottled this wine was aged for six months before release.

Winemaker’s Notes: 

AROMA
black cherry, red raspberry, sandalwood, lavender, chocolate, kirsch, sweet tobacco
FLAVOR
juicy, plush, licorice, anise, black cherry
FINISH
long, smooth, silky tannins, chocolate
SUGGESTED FOOD PAIRINGS
salmon, burgers, roast game hen, rabbit confit, venison, bacon-wrapped scallops


 

Jayson Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $49
Second Label of Pahlmeyer
Retail Price of Pahlmeyer: $76

Vineyards: Pahlmeyer Wayfarer Farm & Hallberg
Appellation: Sonoma Coast
Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Alcohol: 14.9%

Tasting Notes:

We decided to splurge a little bit this year for Thanksgiving dinner with this beautiful bottle of Jayson Pinot Noir.  It is a very fruit-forward wine with bright, fresh fruit aromas of cherry, cranberry, strawberry and plum.  There is also a hint of vanilla.  It’s a high alcohol California Pinot Noir, but it’s incredibly well balanced with mellow grape tannins, well integrated oak and a medium finish.  It was the perfect pairing for one of the best Thanksgiving meals we’ve had in some years. 

You can find the 2007 Jayson Pinot Noir at both Austin-area Twin Liquors Marketplace locations or on the Pahlmeyer website at http://www.pahlmeyer.com/.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

The Jayson Pinot Noir was a perfect wine for our Thanksgiving dinner.  From the turkey to the green bean casserole, the glazed carrots, the stuffing and the homemade cranberry sauce, it couldn’t have been better.  But don’t think of it as a holiday-only wine.  This wine would make an excellent accompaniment to a simple pork loin and vegetables.  A nice roasted duck breast would also fit the bill, as well as a grilled salmon on cedar plank.  It’s a great food wine.

About Jayson:

The Jayson Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Red are made with the same premium methods that produce Pahlmeyer wines.  They do not grow or purchase additional fruit for the Jayson wines.  Rather, all of the grapes are grown and vinified for the Pahlmeyer wines.  After winemaker Erin Green selects the Pahlmeyer blends, she composes from the remaining barrels the Jayson Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Red. 

About Sonoma County and Wayfarer Farm Vineyard:

The birthplace of the California wine industry, winemaking began in Sonoma County in the early 1800’s when Russian colonists and Franciscan monks planted the region’s first vines.  But it wasn’t until the 1960’s that a thriving wine industry developed, and even still it was known primarily as a producer of dairy, grains and other fruits throughout most of the twentieth century.  Today Sonoma County contains 13 unique appellations and grows more than 50 grape varietals.

Bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west and the Mayacamas Mountains on the east which separate it from Napa Valley, the climate of Sonoma County is very moderate with cool days and nights and only the occasional temperature extreme.  The Russian River is the body of water that flows through the county moderating the climate. 

Situated just a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, Wayfarer Farm is tucked between two ridgelines in an idyllic setting for Burgundy varietals. Planted just above the fog line, these vines benefit from intense solar radiance and cool coastal air.  The vineyard was planted in 2002 and its first vintage was released in 2005.

About the Winemaker:

Becoming fascinated with the science of winemaking and winegrowing as an undergraduate at UC Davis, Erin Green pursued a degree in Fermentation Science with an emphasis on Enology. After graduating, she began working part time for both Helen Turley and Sonoma-Cutrer, later becoming Winemaker at Vinwood Cellars, a Sonoma County custom crush facility.  

In the early 1990's Erin was instrumental in launching Napa Wine Company, the custom crush facility for which she was Director of Winemaking. Her next position was with the negociant label Stone Creek, where she utilized her blending skills for almost a decade. During this time, Erin continued to work with Helen Turley on her clients' wines, including Bryant Family, Colgin, Martinelli and Pahlmeyer. The transition to becoming Director of Winegrowing and Winemaker for Pahlmeyer in 2000 was thus a natural move.  

Erin was raised in Sonoma County, where she currently lives with her twin daughters. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

Our grape bunches were hand-sorted, and once de-stemmed, the berries were again sorted by hand on the way to the tank. This was followed by a four to five day cold soak, depending on flavor extraction. The wine was then fermented with native wild yeast in small open-top fermentors for two to three weeks. Towards the end of fermentation the fruit was gently pressed and moved to barrel. The wine finished fermenting in barrel to help integrate the flavors from the oak. The wine continued to age in 70% new French oak for twelve months. The wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered.

“Dense reddish-purple hue. Opens with ripe plums, cola and a hint of ginger. The bright and lively palate unfolds with layers of mixed red and black berries and dessert knish. The finish is balanced and with great length.” – Erin Green, Winemaker

 

La Badiola Acquaguista Rosso 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $15                   
Second Label of Petra                   
Retail Price of Petra: $70
Varietal Content: 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah

Tasting Notes:

Ok, so this isn’t really a Petra second label, but it comes from the same folks and drinks like a dream for $15, so I had to throw it up here.  This Super Tuscan is very fruit forward with aromas of fresh black cherries and black berries, along with the spice of black pepper and green bell pepper.  It is a full bodied wine with big grape tannins, mild oak tannins and a long fruity finish.  This is a crowd pleaser for sure, perhaps not the most refined wine you’ll ever drink, but great for a party or Christmas dinner.  Pour liberally. 

You can find the 2007 Acquaguista Rosso online or in person at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

I wouldn’t necessarily say this is a balanced bottle of wine, but you can play the imbalance to your advantage if you pair it with the appropriate food.  This is an American-style Italian wine as it is clearly designed for the American palate.  So let’s pair it with some American-style Italian food like lasagna, a 3-meat pizza or veal or chicken parmesan.  It would also be a homerun with a nicely made hamburger.  Don’t complicate the food with this wine.

About Acquaguista:

Acquaguista Rosso is produced in the Levante vineyard, Tenuta La Badiola, in the part of the region where the ancient Acquaguista farm can be found.  This served as the operational nucleus for the fascinating reclamation project undertaken during the first half of the nineteenth century by Leopold II of Lorena, the Grand Duke of Tuscany.  All the main activities of the grand duchy took place on this farm, and the same Leopold chose it as his seat for its pleasant location and incredibly pure underground spring, named Acquaguista.

The vineyard is situated at the heart of the Badiola alluvial fan, which is characterized by average to medium acid to neutral reactions.  It is very deep and layers of material are formed when decaying deposits are dislodged upstream.  The result is an impressive pedogenesis in the ground, rich in materials and substances which have been deposited as a result of the alluvial drift.

The Levante vineyard was planted in 2001 and is home to 5,000 plans per hectare, cultivated within a cordoned area.  It has given life to a sincere, powerful wine, which is produced from carefully selected grapes.  Plastic containers are used to harvest the grapes, which are put in to soak immediately and then fermented in steel vats at a controlled temperature.  Once the refinement process is complete, the different parts are combined together to obtain the final blend.

About Super Tuscans:

Super Tuscans are an unofficial category of Tuscan wines, not recognized within the Italian wine classification system. The origin of Super Tuscans is rooted in the restrictive DOC practices of the Chianti zone prior to the 1990s. During this time Chianti could be composed of no more than 70% Sangiovese and had to include at least 10% of one of the local white wine grapes. Producers who deviated from these regulations could not use the Chianti name on their wine labels and would be classified as vino da tavola- Italy’s lowest wine designation.

By the 1970s, the consumer market for Chianti wines was suffering and the wines were widely perceived to be lacking quality. Many Tuscan wine producers thought they could produce a better quality wine if they were not hindered by the DOC regulations.  Piero Antinori was one of the first to create a "Chianti-style" wine that ignored the DOC regulations, releasing a 1971 Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend known as Tignanello in 1978. Other producers followed suit and soon the prices for these Super Tuscans were consistently beating the prices of some of most well known Chianti.

Rather than rely on name recognition of the Chianti region, the Super Tuscan producers sought to create a wine brand that would be recognizable on its own merits by consumers. By the late 1980s, the trend of creating high quality non-DOC wines had spread to other regions of Tuscany, as well as Piedmont and Veneto. Modification to the Chianti DOC regulation attempted to "correct" the issues of Super Tuscans, so that many of the original Super Tuscans would now qualify as standard DOC/G Chianti. While many producers have brought their Super Tuscans back under DOC regulations, many have not and instead continue to use the less restrictive IGT designation Toscana.

In addition to wines based on the Sangiovese grape, many well known Super Tuscans are based on a "Bordeaux-blend", meaning a combination of grapes typical for Bordeaux (esp. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). These grapes are not originally from the region, but imported and planted later. The climate in Tuscany has proven to be very good for these grapes. One of the first successful Super Tuscan based on a "Bordeaux-blend" was Sassicaia, by Tenuta San Guido.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Color: intense ruby red
Scent: small, sweet soft fruits with a strong hint of spice and Mediterranean balsamic vinegar.
Flavor: vigorous but at the same time elegant and lasing; a perfect balance between alcohol and body.  A long lasting, aromatic persistence.


 

EBO Val di Cornia Suvereto Rosso 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $22                  
Second Label of Petra                   
Retail Price of Petra: $70
Varietal Content: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot

Tasting Notes:

Sticking with last week’s Petra-themed Rosso, this week we’re going to look at another of their bargain basement gems, the EBO.  This Super Tuscan is a Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot blend that is very earthy.  The fruit is a sideshow to the rich mocha, chocolate and tobacco flavors.  There is also a ton of green bell pepper on the nose from the Cabernet Sauvignon.  The grape and oak tannins are nicely balanced and it has a big, long finish.  This is an excellent wine for the price, but I would advise decanting it a minimum of an hour before serving. 

You can find the 2007 EBO Rosso online or in person at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This EBO calls for very hearty foods such as braised meats, especially beef short ribs, which would really highlight its earthy qualities.  Since we’re in the midst of winter, I think a lot of stews would be great with it too.  Just make sure to keep the spice level at a minimum because the big tannins in this wine will make spicy food seem even spicier.  You could also drink this with a variety of dark chocolate desserts assuming they aren’t too sweet. 

From the Winemaker:
The name of the wine recalls the historical roots of Suvereto: Ebo was the name of an ancient Etruscan settlement. The wine is produced using the Sangiovese grape, one of the oldest and best Italian varieties, cultivated in Tuscany since the time of the Etruscans. One popular theory suggests that the name Sangiovese comes from a corruption of the Latin expression Sanguis Jovis (blood of Jupiter). Petra cultivates this grape with extreme care, concentrating on interpreting the typical features of the soils and the richness of the Val di Cornia area in the best way possible.

The method of production is also rigorously concentrated on retaining the characteristics of the land: the grapes are collected when fully mature (end of August - mid-September) and transported in cases with a capacity no greater than 17kg; fermentation is carried out naturally with local yeasts and vinification takes place in steel vats at controlled temperatures. Ageing takes place in Slavonic oak barrels, whilst a small part of the process (10-12 months) happens in oak ‘barrique’ (second or third fill) from the central massif in France. The period of wood ageing is followed by ten months of refinement in bottles.

The Ebo Val di Cornia label features a heavenly vault, crossed by twelve lines that represent the months of the year, and surrounded by eight spheres, representing the phases of the moon, and seven concentric rings that recall the days of the week. It is a symbol that summarizes the relationship between the vineyard and the stars that influence its production.

2007 Vintage Notes:

Color: ruby red of medium intensity, clear.
Aroma: intense with plenty of suggestions of red fruits, cherry and blueberry; a hint of wood is perceptible but slight, and the eucalyptus and other green aromas are highly noticeable.
Flavor:  full, smooth and persistent. Excellent harmony between acidity and tannins.  Fresh aftertaste in which tones of blackberry and dry fruits reappear.

About Super Tuscans:

Super Tuscans are an unofficial category of Tuscan wines, not recognized within the Italian wine classification system. The origin of Super Tuscans is rooted in the restrictive DOC practices of the Chianti zone prior to the 1990s. During this time Chianti could be composed of no more than 70% Sangiovese and had to include at least 10% of one of the local white wine grapes. Producers who deviated from these regulations could not use the Chianti name on their wine labels and would be classified as vino da tavola- Italy’s lowest wine designation.

By the 1970s, the consumer market for Chianti wines was suffering and the wines were widely perceived to be lacking quality. Many Tuscan wine producers thought they could produce a better quality wine if they were not hindered by the DOC regulations.  Piero Antinori was one of the first to create a "Chianti-style" wine that ignored the DOC regulations, releasing a 1971 Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend known as Tignanello in 1978. Other producers followed suit and soon the prices for these Super Tuscans were consistently beating the prices of some of most well known Chianti.

Rather than rely on name recognition of the Chianti region, the Super Tuscan producers sought to create a wine brand that would be recognizable on its own merits by consumers. By the late 1980s, the trend of creating high quality non-DOC wines had spread to other regions of Tuscany, as well as Piedmont and Veneto. Modification to the Chianti DOC regulation attempted to "correct" the issues of Super Tuscans, so that many of the original Super Tuscans would now qualify as standard DOC/G Chianti. While many producers have brought their Super Tuscans back under DOC regulations, many have not and instead continue to use the less restrictive IGT designation Toscana.

In addition to wines based on the Sangiovese grape, many well known Super Tuscans are based on a "Bordeaux-blend", meaning a combination of grapes typical for Bordeaux (esp. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). These grapes are not originally from the region, but imported and planted later. The climate in Tuscany has proven to be very good for these grapes. One of the first successful Super Tuscan based on a "Bordeaux-blend" was Sassicaia, by Tenuta San Guido.


 

Maxwell Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $9                    
Second Label of St. Supery                   
Retail Price of St. Supery: $20

Varietal Content: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fruit Source: 100% Estate Grown at Dollarhide Vineyard  

Tasting Notes:

The Maxwell Creek Sauvignon Blanc is the relabeled excess juice from St. Supery’s first label.  This is Napa Valley estate grown fruit and is an incredible value bottle of wine at $9.  Aromas of tropical fruit, like kumquat, guava and lychee, jump out of the glass.  I also picked up ample amounts of honeydew melon, grapefruit, passion fruit and gooseberry.  This wine is high in acid and has a long, tart finish.  I absolutely love it and would be happy to pay the $20 that the St. Supery first label fetches.  This is a well-made Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc.

You can find the Maxwell Creek Sauvignon Blanc at World Market and at Trader Joe’s.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is the ideal wine for sipping on the patio on those scorching summer afternoons.  However, since we’re in the midst of winter, it could also be used for a variety of foods.  I particularly think it would be lovely with sweet seafood dishes like shrimp, scallops and lobster.  It would also work well with mild preparations of white fish and could be used to cool off the taste buds with spicy Asian or Mexican dishes.

About Maxwell Creek:

Maxwell Creek is a second label of St. Supery in Napa Valley.  Two vineyards - one in Rutherford at the heart of Napa Valley's Cabernet Sauvignon country, the other, Dollarhide, in a serene corner of Napa Valley - are the source of St. Supéry wines, most notably, Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blanc.  St. Supery Vineyards & Winery is owned by the Skalli family of France. Robert Skalli's family has made wine for several generations in South of France. While traveling in Napa Valley during the 1970s, Robert was inspired to create an estate winery in Napa Valley to make wines of distinct and respectable character. Dollarhide, an historic cattle and horse ranch nestled among the hills of Napa Valley, was planted with the noble grape varieties of Bordeaux, France in the early 1980s. St. Supéry's Rutherford property became the home of the winery and first class Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards.

About Napa Valley and Dollarhide Vineyards:

Napa Valley opens to the south where the climate is shaped by the maritime influences of the great San Pablo Bay. This regular influx of cool, damp air creates a meso-climate that is significantly different from that of the Northern reaches of the valley where the day’s heat can remain trapped and accumulates over the course of the summer growing season.

St. Supéry acquired Dollarhide ranch in 1982, a cattle and horse ranch since the late 1800s. Dollarhide is a 1500 acre property with steep and rolling hills, some flat lands and seven lakes. St. Supéry has planted fewer than 500 acres in grape vines at Dollarhide, so most of the property remains in a natural state, and is home to a diverse collection of flora and fauna. With elevations ranging from 600 to 775 feet above sea level, the diverse terrain and unique microclimate at Dollarhide are especially accommodating to Bordeaux grape varieties – those traditionally grown in Bordeaux, France – particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.  This estate vineyard is the origin of most St. Supéry wines.

The Napa Valley’s typical warm days and cool nights are slightly exaggerated at Dollarhide, because of the elevation and the distance from the moderating influence of the San Francisco Bay. This climate yields ripe and luscious fruit with crisp acidity – well-balanced grapes that produce well-balanced wines. The dry growing season forces the vines to struggle just enough that the fruit develops concentrated and complex flavors.

About the Winemaker:

Originally from Australia, Michael Scholz is the 6th generation to grow up on his family’s vineyard in the Barossa Valley. Michael comes to St. Supéry from Wattle Creek, a Sonoma property in Alexander Valley. Scholz is not a newcomer to the Napa Valley or St. Supéry. He was previously winemaker for the Napa Valley winery from 1996 to 2001. During his tenure, he created the distinctive style that has made St. Supéry the benchmark producer of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The Cabernet Sauvignons Michael created for St. Supéry also garnered critical acclaim with five Cabernets securing 90+ scores from the Wine Spectator. Oenologist and consultant, Michel Rolland says, “Michael Scholz is on my list of great winemakers from around the world.” 


 

Vall Llach Embruix 2006

Picture
Retail Price: $24
Third label of Vall Llach
Retail Price of Vall Llach: $80
Retail Price of Vall Llach second label, Idus: $55

Varietal content: 34% Garnacha, 22% Cariñena, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Syrah, 4% Merlot
Cooperage: Aged 16 months in fine-grained French oak barriques of light- and medium-toasted. 
Alchohol: 15.5%

Tasting Notes:

The Embruix from Vall Llach is actually the third label of this top-end Spanish producer.  It is a very earthy wine with aromas of tobacco, green bell pepper, cedar and licorice.  The fruit is more muted immediately upon opening the bottle, but once it has been open for an hour or so, one can detect ripe, dark fruit like plums, black cherries and raspberry.  This is an incredibly high acid red wine and uses all five of the allowable Priorat varietals, and in true Priorat style, it’s got fat tannins and a long, long finish.  I like it a lot, but it’s definitely not for the uninitiated wine drinker.

You can find the 2006 Vall Llach Embruix through our wine shop, and in the Austin area at Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is not one of the most versatile wines we’ve reviewed here.  It’s a great bottle, but it needs to be paired with exactly the right food or you’re heading for a train wreck.  It is arguably the most acidic red wine I’ve ever tasted, so you need to pair it with some very fatty meats in order to even things out on the palette.  The first thing that jumps to mind is a crispy-skinned braised pork belly.  Think fat and you’ll do ok with it.

About Vall Llach:

The Embruix wine from Vall Llach is based principally on the juice of their young vines, between six to twelve years old, and is meant to be approachable immediately upon release or aged along with their other wines.

From its founding in the early 1990s, by famed Spanish singer Lluís Llach and notary Enric Costa, Vall Llach winemaking has been governed by a commitment to rigor and quality. The winery lies in the tiny village of Porerra, in southern Catalonia, in the highly-acclaimed D.O.Q. Priorat. Here, the magnificent century-old vineyard estates of Vall Llach are home to 60- to 90-year-old Cariñena and Garnacha vines.

Old vines naturally produce low yields, and Vall Llach reduces yields even further through careful vineyard management for densely concentrated wines. Vineyards climb steep slate hillsides, receiving optimum sun exposure and beneficial water deprivation, further concentrating the fruit. Newer plantings of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah add complexity to the old-vine character, and the resulting wines - Vall Llach, Idus, and Embruix - have received high critical acclaim.

About Priorat:

The Catalans call it Priorat, most others in Spain say Priorato - however you choose to pronounce it, it's easy to see it has been an up-and-coming region for Spain, sparking envy among collectors. The region has become something of a cult wine producer, creating wines that cost up to 5 times that of a quality Rioja. The region has a special soil, called llicorella made of a brown slate mixed together with rocks. Mountains surround the area and the vines are tended by hand.  The red wines here are based on Garnacha, and produce inky wine with intense fruit flavors of blackberry and plums, not to mention a required minimum of 13.5% alcohol. The secondary grape of the region is Carinena (Carignan in France). This grape has lost favor in most parts of the world due to its rustic nature, but here in Priorat it's a welcome structural addition to the Garnacha based wines.

Winemaker's Notes:

Sourced primarily from 10 to 15 year-old estate vines, Embruix (pronounced "Embroosh") de Vall Llach is Catalan for "bewitching." True to its name, the wine has an enchanting scarlet color with an amethyst halo. Full of succulent fruit, dark minerals and sweet spices, including nutmeg and fennel, this wine is complex and full-bodied. Meant to consume now or age for 20-25 years, this wine should be served between 58-60ºF.

Harvest Notes:

The Vall Llach team has characterized the 2006 vintage as being a "year of contrasts," where a very cold and humid winter was followed by an almost complete lack of spring weather as the temperature jumped from very cold to very warm in a matter of days. The record high temperatures that occurred between April and June were replaced by unusually cool temperatures in July and August, even though all of the summer months were sunny and very dry. Harvest began on the 16th of September and ended much earlier than usual on the 22nd of October. The overall grape quality was said to be very good and the vines produced small grape clusters that were high in sugar concentration with a good phenolic maturation. Total production was similar to that of 2005, when around 1/3 less fruit was harvested than in previous years.

 

Helix Merlot 2005

Picture
Retail Price: $18                    
Second Label of Reininger Merlot                   
Retail Price of Reininger: $34

Varietal Content: 97% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon
Grapes Source: Stillwater Creek Vineyard
Cooperage: 85% American, 10% French, 5% Russian
Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes from Leah Crenwelge:  

This Helix is a very smooth wine with mild tannins.  It offers good acidity with quite a bit of heat at 14.5% alcohol.  There were a lot of dark cherries and other fruit on the nose along with vanilla and spice.  I also detected a good amount of baked fruit, specifically stewed prunes.    

You can find the 2005 Helix Merlot in the Austin area at Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions from Leah Crenwelge:

This wine stands up to red meat with no problem.  The first thing I thought of was bistecca alla fiorentina (porterhouse) as a perfect pairing. Sella di capriolo arrosto ai mirtilli rossi would be another (roast saddle of deer with cranberries). 

About Helix:

Helix is the second label of Reininger Winery.  They began producing it in 2004, sourcing fruit for this wine from the larger Columbia Valley focusing on fruit from Walla Walla for the first label.  Reininger Winery was create by Chuck Reininger, a former mountain climbing guide, after he met his wife Tracy, a native of Walla Walla.

From 1997 through 2004, Reininger Winery was located in a small but functional facility located at the historic Walla Walla Regional Airport.  The “shack-teau,” as Chuck and Tracy fondly nicknamed it, was originally designated as a WWII Army Air Corp runway “crash house” and “base theater” where old time crooners and classic films entertained troops.  In 2003 they purchased seven acres of land, located six miles west of Walla Walla, and began renovating two pre-existing potato sheds into a remodeled 15,000 square foot winery, complete with production facility, administrative offices, and a tasting room.  

The second wine is called Helix because the Reiningers sold a family farm near Helix, a rural farming community near Pendleton, Oregon, in order to build a new winery and create this wine.  

About Walla Walla:

Located in southeast Washington State overlapping into Oregon, the Walla Walla Valley is, for all intents and purposes, a desert thanks to the towering Cascade Mountains which block most of the rain that comes in off the Pacific.  The result is a long, sunny growing season of 190 to 220 days where producers control the amount of water the vines receive through irrigation.  The soil type is primarily calcareous silt.  

Vines were first planted in the Walla Walla Valley by Italian immigrants in the 1850’s, but not many people paid attention to the region until a few years ago.  As recently as 1990, there were only 4 working wineries in the region.  Today there are nearly 100 wineries and over 1,600 acres under vine in the appellation.

Although the Walla Walla Valley has been primarily known for Riesling and Merlot, in recent years it has also been producing some world-class Syrah.

About the Winemaker:

Along with attending winemaking courses at University of California Davis, Chuck Reininger began his informal training at the early age of six. Chuck’s family planned and took annual summer vacations to various national parks around the country. These summer excursions seeded in Chuck, a deep connection and fascination with the outdoors. Seeking a way to harness his passion for nature and adventure, Chuck spent many years as a mountaineering guide on Mt. Rainier. Chuck sees several parallelisms between winemaking and climbing. Both require patience, the ability to assess the medium and the environment, anticipation and in Chuck’s vision, both have a common goal- “To experience the journey and to reach the top.” 

Winemaker’s Notes:

Scaling this wine will take more than a rope and a carabiner! Once you reach the top, close your eyes and slowly take in the scent of charcoal smoke and baking spice intertwined with black cherry cola and a touch of pencil lead. Bathing the palate is a juicy mountain of blackberries, blueberries and black pepper while cigar box spice climbs to the top of this Cliff of Insanity. Charcoal and a black fruit finish cling to the summit like a thunderhead cloud.

 

Slingshot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $20
Second Label of Stewart Cellars
Retail Price of Stewart Cellars: $62

Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fruit Source: 100% Napa Valley (Primarily Julianna Vineyard in Pope Valley)
  Cooperage: 22 months in French Oak (30% new)
Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:

Ok, so perhaps I’m being a little generous to call this a second label, BUT I did it anyway because it’s an incredible value Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and there is a family connection (see below).  The 2007 Slingshot is overflowing with dark, concentrated fruits like black currant, blackberries and black cherries.  There is also a nice amount of green bell pepper, tobacco and a hint of vanilla.  The grape and oak tannins are well integrated and it has a medium to long finish.  This is an easy drinker and, at $20 a bottle, a great bang for your buck.  

The 2007 Slingshot Cabernet Sauvignon can be found online or in person at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is a big wine, and it’s not overly complex, so I would stick to fairly simple foods that will stand up to the wine.  Generally speaking just about any grilled meat would be a great pairing for this Cabernet.  Smoked brisket would also work well, as would a good old fashioned hamburger.  I could also see this pairing nicely with a 3-meat pizza perhaps with some olives and mushrooms as well. 

About Slingshot:

Slingshot isn’t really a second label of Stewart Cellars, but it is all in the family.  Stewart Cellars was founded by Michael Stewart in 1999 after he sold a Houston-based computer company.  He hired Paul Hobbs as his consulting winemaker and very soon was producing $100+ bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon.  

James Stewart, Michael’s son, moved to Napa Valley to work for the family winery when he was 25 years old.  He started by handling the books for the winery, and then moved on to marketing and distribution.  He created Slingshot as a spinoff to meet the demand for high quality Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at or below $20 a bottle.

Stewart began Slingshot in 2005 using some unsold grapes from the 900-acre vineyard his father bought in Napa’s Pope Valley ten years prior.  His first vintage included 10,000 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon and 2,000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc.  Both sold out in nine months.    

About Napa Valley:

The first commercial vineyard was established in Napa Valley in 1858, but due to the outbreak of phylloxera, the institution of Prohibition and the Great Depression, wine making in Napa didn’t really take off until the 1970’s.  In fact, it was the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 (see Chad’s Recommending Wine Reading List at the top of the page) that really catapulted Napa Valley onto the world stage when a Napa Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon bested numerous famous French labels in a blind tasting.  

Napa Valley is flanked by the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and north and the Vaca Mountains to the east.  The soil contains large amounts of volcanic lava and ash.  There are over 450 wineries in the Napa AVA today and an acre of prime vineyard land goes for more than $200,000, up from only $5,000 in 1970.

About the Winemaker:

Consulting winemaker Stephen Test brings more than a quarter century of winemaking experience to his work at Slingshot. A graduate of the UC-Davis Master’s program in Viticulture and Enology, Steve honed his skill practicing the classic, hand-crafted winemaking methods that have proven so successful with Napa Valley wines. Former director of winemaking at Merryvale Vineyards, he now manages his own Stephen Test Wines brand. 


 

Joseph Drouhin Laforet Pinot Noir 2009

Picture
Retail Price: $16
Second Label of Joseph Drouhin classified wines
Price of classified wines: varies based on appellation

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Fruit Source: Blend of appellations in Burgundy
Cooperage: Stainless steel vats and 1 to 2 year old barrels
Alcohol: 12.5%

Tasting Notes:

This Pinot Noir is a declassified Burgundy from Joseph Drouhin with grapes coming from a variety of their vineyards throughout the region.  It is a steal at $16 and provides a lot of the quality found in some of Drouhin’s higher dollar single-appellation offerings.  On the nose, you’ll find both fresh and cooked fruit aromas.  I particularly noticed fresh cherries along with cranberry sauce and strawberry marmalade.  It’s a bright wine and a real treat for a red Burgundy under $20 which can be notoriously hit-or-miss.  

You can find the 2009 Joseph Drouhin LaForet online through our Wine Shop.  In the Austin area, it’s also available at Specs or Twin Liquors Marketplace locations.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This wine calls for sweet meats that are tender on the inside with a crispy, naturally caramelized skin.  Think crispy sweetbreads, pig trotter, meat loaf or pork belly.  You could also go for the standard Pinot Noir pairings of salmon or duck, but this is an interesting bottle of wine that deserves something a little more out of the ordinary.  It’s a very versatile wine.  High marks for this low-dollar Burgundy.

About Maison Joseph Drouhin:

Since 1880, Maison Joseph Drouhin has built a reputation for wines that primarily reflect their individual terroir and vintage.  A balance of tradition and modern techniques characterizes Joseph Drouhin winemaking and vineyard management: on site nursery, plowing, leaf removal, 100% hand harvesting, open fermenters, fermenting and aging in oak.  An estate has evolved with important holdings in Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, Chablis and, most recently, Oregon.  Maison Joseph Drougin has been awarded organic certification for all grapes grown within its vineyards beginning with the 2009 vintage.  This comes 20 years after Philippe Drouhin first began introducing organic practices to the vineyards.

About Burgundy: 


Burgundy is a small region, only about a fourth the size of Bordeaux.  The narrow thread of vineyard land stretches from the city of Dijon to Lyon. The five main districts of Burgundy are – from North to South – Chablis, Côte d'Or, Côte Chalonnaise, Maconnais, and Beaujolais. Chablis is far removed geographically (above Dijon) and adheres to its own classifications. Beaujolais is its own region due to grape variety, vinification methods and regulations.  That leaves the Côte d'Or, Côte Chalonnaise and Maconnais as the heart of Burgundy.

The big drawback of Burgundy is its unpredictability in quality. Much of this is due to the fragmentation of the vineyards and producers. Once owned and run by the church and nobility, the vineyards of Burgundy were seized during French Revolution and sold off piece by piece. Further separation occurred with Napoleonic Law, which ordered that inherited land be divided among children equally. These two factors put Burgundy where it is today – a myriad of vineyards and villages, each with a number of growers and producers. As an example, the grand cru Clos Vougeot has 125 acres of vineyards. These 125 acres have more than 80 growers, some who own as little as 2 rows of vines.

Burgundy is organized by plots of land and labeled as such. About half of Burgundy works on a négociant system. Growers of small plots sell grapes, or more often, barrels of already made wine, to négociant houses who then blend it with other wines from that region and put it under their label. While the négociant system may sound like a way to produce mass amounts of anonymous wines, that is, luckily, not the case. Wines are labeled with a sense of place, so you know what land you are getting. There are some négociant houses that are much more renowned and consistent than others, and for the most part, the system works. But times are changing. Some growers are purchasing more land and making the wine on their property, under their label, for more consistency. On the other side, négociant houses are buying up their own vineyards so they will have more control over winemaking. Either way, buying Burgundy often depends on being familiar with the producer or négociant. It's the best way to start if one is unfamiliar with the intricate classification system of the region.

Burgundy is also known for having a most confusing classification system. This is apparent in the Côte d'Or, or the golden slope, which encompasses the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits. The classification system is similar to a pyramid. At the base of the pyramid is the most basic of the classifications, the Burgundy AC, meaning grapes can come from anywhere in the Burgundy region. Next up is a village wine, such as Côte de Beaune or Côte de Nuits, or the villages within these regions, like Givery-Chambertin or Puligny-Montrachet. The label will say Appellation Puligny-Montrachet Controlée. At the next level is the premier cru. A wine that says Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru will still be Appellation Puligny-Montrachet [premier cru] Controllée, but may include the premier cru vineyard name, such as Les Pucelles. At the tip of the pyramid are the grand cru vineyards. There are only 30 in the Côte d'Or and the name of the vineyard is the appellation name.

Winemaker's Notes:

A wine full of charm: bright ruby colour and a nose rich with aromas of red fruit (raspberry, red currants, wild strawberry). On the palate, the wine is pleasant, fruity and refreshing, with light tannins and great elegance.

 

Jester Shiraz 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $19
Second Label of Mitolo G.A.M. Shiraz
Retail Price of Mitolo G.A.M. Shiraz: $40

Varietal: 100% Shiraz
Fruit Source: Willunga district of McLaren Vale
Cooperage: 9 months in 2-4 year old French oak

Tasting Notes:

The 2007 Jester Shiraz is a great second label offering from Mitolo for the price.  On the nose there is a noticeable amount of dark fruit, specifically blackberries and black cherries, but the dominant taste profile here is the spice with clove and pepper shining through.  It’s full bodied wine, with a high level of acid, big oak tannins and a long finish.  It’s a nice example of McLaren Vale Shiraz.  

You can find the 2007 Jester Shiraz online through our Wine Shop or in the Austin area you can pick it up at Specs.  

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This is not a wine that I would drink on its own.  I’d say this is definitely a food wine that calls for fatty meats or dishes with strong flavor.  Braised pork belly would be a nice accompaniment, as would any number of offal dishes like beef tongue, beef heart or chicken livers.  It is a big wine that would perhaps overshadow more mild meats or preparations, so go big of go home with this Shiraz.

About Jester:

Jester is the second label of Mitolo wines.  They call the Jester Shiraz their “baby G.A.M.” because it’s made using the same barrels in which G.A.M was previously aged. It is made to be upfront and approachable for early appreciation.

Frank Mitolo created Mitolo winery in 1999.  The first Mitolo wine was the 2000 G.A.M.; named after Frank’s children Gemma, Alexander and Marco.  Ben Glaetzer joined Mitolo as a partner and winemaker in 2001.

The grapes for Jester come from the Willunga district of McLaren Vale, where the heavy grey loam soils over sandstone, intermixed with black Biscay clay, combined with the maritime climate, contribute to an even ripening period and the development of rich fruit flavors and ripe tannins. Yield is around 4 tons an acre.

About McLaren Vale and Lopresti Vineyard:

Mitolo’s Lopresti vineyard is located near the coastal town of Port Willunga in the McLaren Vale region of South Australia, where vines have been grown for more than 170 years. The tempering effect of the nearby ocean creates a Mediterranean climate producing ideal growing conditions and world class wines.  Having spent its past life as an almond orchard, the Lopresti vineyard overlooks the coast where its vines, some of which are almost 30 years of age, grow in heavy grey loam over sandstone soils, intermixed with black cracking Biscay clays. 

These soils have excellent water holding capacity, so require minimal irrigation. Temperatures are slightly warmer than average for the region and give the grapes great flavor intensity and excellent tannin ripeness. Cool afternoon sea breezes and nights help maintain the acid levels in the grapes, leading to an extended ripening period on the vine with natural balance and complex and powerful flavors.

About the Winemaking Process:

Each parcel of fruit for Jester is fermented on skins for 5 to 6 days at a cool temperature to enhance the pure berry fruit. The wine is then pressed and undergoes partial barrel fermentation. A natural malolactic fermentation is completed before the wine is racked. Aged in 2-4 year old French oak for 9 months. 

Winemaker’s Notes:

Deep cherry jube in color, the 2007 Jester Shiraz continues to show bright, vibrant, rich fruit. A revelation of blue and black berries, there is mocha and a hint of spice on the nose. The palate exhibits focused, genuine fruit and subtle, yet structured, tannins support a velvety elongated finish.

Harvest Notes:

Unprecedented seasonal conditions have reduced yields to a 30 year low. The 2007 harvest commenced six weeks early. The major seasonal influence on the 2007 crop was the severe drought conditions experienced across much of the country however an episode of rain in mid January improved the situation for many growers by refreshing the vines. Winemakers report that many red varieties bunch numbers were near average, however there were fewer berries per bunch than usual and the berries were small. Quality is thought to be good to excellent. Absence of disease is a primary factor in this outcome. Conditions appear to be more favorable to reds with smaller red berry size traditionally associated with higher quality through intensification of flavor and color.

 

Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Picture
Retail Price: $26
Second Label of Laurel Glen
Retail Price of Laurel Glen: $58

Varietal Content: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Fruit Source: Laurel Glen Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain
Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:

This is one of if not the best value California Cabernet Sauvignon that we have reviewed on this website.  Dark fruit abound with black cherries, raspberries and black currant.  There is also a good amount of vanilla on the nose and a hint of tobacco and spice, but otherwise it’s a very bright, fruit forward wine.  It almost has a reduction-sauce quality where each of the fruits is intensified on the nose and on the palette. The grape and oak tannins are nicely balanced and it has a medium to long finish.  It’s not an overly complex wine, but it’s not meant to be.  It’s easy to like and would be a real crowd pleaser at a party for both novice and more discerning wine drinkers.

The 2007 Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon can be found online or in person at Specs.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

For a big fruit bomb like this, I’d suggest going old school with something like a nicely prepared pork loin, juicy on the inside with crispy skin on the outside.  It needs to be well brined to make it as juicy as possible.  A roasted suckling pig would also be a great accompaniment as would a fresh ground beef hamburger.  You can never go wrong with a simple steak and baked potato either.  

About Counterpoint:

Counterpoint is the second label of Laurel Glen.  Immediately after fermentation, they usually have 10 or so lots from various parts of the vineyards. These lots are blended over the next two years as their nature is revealed. Lots more approachable young are used to produce Counterpoint; richer and more age-worthy lots are separated out for Laurel Glen Vineyard.  Since final lot selections are not determined until the second year of barrel aging, Counterpoint is vinified using the same practices as Laurel Glen Vineyard.  The wine is kept in barrels 18 to 36 months, depending on the vintage conditions. They use 50 to 60 percent new Taransaud French oak barrels for Laurel Glen Vineyard and about 30 percent new oak barrels for Counterpoint.

About Sonoma County and Laurel Glen Vineyard:

The birthplace of the California wine industry, winemaking began in Sonoma County in the early 1800’s when Russian colonists and Franciscan monks planted the region’s first vines.  But it wasn’t until the 1960’s that a thriving wine industry developed, and even still it was known primarily as a producer of dairy, grains and other fruits throughout most of the twentieth century.  Today Sonoma County contains 13 unique appellations and grows more than 50 grape varietals including 6,000 acres of Zinfandel.

Bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west and the Mayacamas Mountains on the east which separate it from Napa Valley, the climate of Sonoma County is very moderate with cool days and nights and only the occasional temperature extreme.  The Russian River is the body of water that flows through the county moderating the climate.  

Originally planted to mixed red varietals by German immigrants at the end of the 19th century, Laurel Glen vineyard was replanted in 1968 to Cabernet Sauvignon on the eve of a modern proliferation of vineyards in California. The grapes were vineyard-designated by Chateau St. Jean, and later provided the backbone of Kenwood's Artist Series for five years. In 1977, Patrick Campbell bought the Sonoma Mountain property and slowly increased the size of the vineyard.

Today, the 16-acre vineyard is planted entirely to Cabernet Sauvignon exclusively on the Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon clone. One of the vines planted in 1968 became the parent material for additional Cabernet plantings and the Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Clone, developed by Campbell and certified by the University of California at Davis.

The vineyard sits at an elevation of 800–1000 feet, on a southeast-facing slope of Sonoma Mountain above the fog line. This optimal exposure captures the first rays of morning sunlight and avoids the burning heat of late afternoon. The thin, rocky, complex soils of Sonoma Mountain promote efficient water drainage and restrain excess vigor. Production is low, typically two to three tons per acre. As of 2011 the vineyard is farmed organically.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Bright ruby-red. Aromas of red berries, tobacco, mocha and smoky minerals, with suave notes of spice cake and rose adding complexity. Juicy, penetrating red fruit flavors become sweeter in the mid-palate and repeat the floral note. There's good minerality here, which adds a nervy underpinning, but the fruit is to the fore right now. Finishes with good juicy cling and echoes of rose and cherry. The wine's sneaky tannins bode well for aging.”

Harvest Notes:

2007 was a year to gladden the hearts of winemakers. North, south, east, and west, from Alicante Bouschet to Zinfandel, vintage 2007 produced splendid wines, and Sonoma Mountain was no exception. Although the crop was small, the quality was high: a long and even growing year, devoid of temperature extremes, and with a normal late-September harvest, produced beautiful ripening.

 

The Wolftrap 2010

Picture
Retail Price: $8
Second Label of Boekenhoutskloof
Retail Price of Boekenhoutskloof: $45

Varietal: Syrah 65%, Mourvèdre 32%, Viognier 3%
Fruit Source: Malmesbury

Alcohol: 14.5%

Tasting Notes:

The Wolftrap is a fantastic value from one of South Africa’s top producers.  There isn’t a lot of complexity, but for under $10 it is one of the better reds on the shelf.  There are generous amounts of pepper, spice and tobacco, along with ripe dark fruit like black cherries and black berries.  It’s a full bodied wine with medium tannins and a long finish.  Pour liberally! 

You can find the 2010 Wolftrap online through our Wine Shop or in the Austin area you can pick it up at Spec’s.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

This would be a great game wine for things like grilled or roasted venison.  As we approach BBQ season, I can’t help but think how well this would pair with a plate of beef spareribs too.  Or just crack open a bottle for a take-out pizza or a fast-food hamburger.  This is a great everyday drinking wine and is versatile with a variety of foods.

About Wolftrap:

Wolftrap is a second label of Boekenhoutskloof (Pronounced “Book-n-Howed”).  In 1776, the Boekenhoutskloof farm was founded in the Franschhoek Valley.  A Boekenhout is an indigenous Cape beech tree that was greatly prized for furniture making. 

The French Huguenots were the first people to settle and employ the soils and Mediterranean climate for growing grape vines.  The farm is located 40 minutes northeast of Cape Town.  In 1993 the farm and homestead were bought and restored.  A new vineyard planning program was established and now includes Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Semillon and Viognier. 

About Paarl and the Franschhoek Valley:

For most of the 20th century, Paarl was the heart of the South African wine industry.  It was the home of KWV, the low-quality cooperative that dominated the industry from its founding in 1918 until the end of apartheid.  Gradually the focus shifted southwards to Stellenbosch where Stellenbosch University took on a prominent role as having one of the world’s leading viticulture and winemaking programs. 

The Franschoek Valley is a ward of Paarl.  A small but significant region, it lies to the west of Stellenbosch.  Surrounded by the Drakenstein Mountains, the wide variety of soils and relatively high rainfall permits production of a wide variety of wine styles.  It's a hotter region than Stellenbosch, and with its profusion of trendy restaurants it can rightfully claim to be the gourmet capital of the wine lands.

About the Winemaker:

Marc Kent has been responsible for some of South Africa’s most talked about wines for a few years now.  Marc’s first Boekenhoutskloof wine was made in 1996, although he and his business partners bought his historic Franschhoek property back in 1993. Winemaking wasn’t his first career choice: he was on course to be a pilot with the South African air force when the changing political landscape derailed this option. Growth has been fairly rapid. From an initial 6000 bottles in 1996, and in 1997 just 1000 more, now production is running at 1.3–1.5 million.

Winemaker’s Notes:

Sourced from Malmesbury in the Swartland the Syrah provides the spice and weight while the Mourvèdre adds structure and aroma to the blend. The pungent Viognier component boosts the perfume profile. French oak matured with the Viognier blended prior to bottling.

Spicy profile with ripe black fruit and cherries. Hints of violet flavours from the Viognier. Smooth and rich on the palate with soft tannins and good density. Made for easy drinking.